Crider , I have benn following your posts, and I may not have THE answer, but here are a couple of my thoughts;
I assume your chassis and rear-end set-up is good since your car was going straight before, with no chassis changes, just more power ?
But again check the roll out of your slicks, and try swaping tires to see if it still turns right at about 30' .
If it was my JF car I would add at least 40 lbs to the nose if you are getting a quick yank of the front wheels at the hit, that might be adding to your problem if you have a short or stiff wheelie par.
My WB is a 5 foot 3 bar CM with no connectors between the bars, so I get some flex in the WB , a stiff WB will only make your problem worse when the WB hits.
Again , if it was my car and I added pressure to the right tire and it still goes more right, I would think it means the right tire is spinning more so the left slick steers the car to the right.
I notice you and a few other racers are using the M/T 33x10.5x15 tires, and just so know all the 10.5 tires were built for the 10.5 door car classes, where the cars weight 2-3k+ and shift allot more times than your PG , which means the sidewalls are stiffer, and softer compounds for better traction. Where as FED 2 speed cars want/need enough tire spin the keep the engine at it's HP RPM range.
I have tried the MT 33x10.5 a few times on our 1450lb [ with driver] Heritage all iron JrFuel car, mostly because a buddy of mine could not get them to work on his Heritage A/F car, mostly because he was looking for more tire growth , because it was a a stiffer side tire he did not get what he wanted. With our JF car we did get a bit better 60' times, but the GY 31x12x15 gave us better ET's, AND it drifted to the right, probly not the reason you are going right.
What I would do if it was my car is keep adding front weight until the front wheels don't come up, raise the WB up to 2-2.5 " check roll-out, check for chassis cracked or broke tubing [ we have cracked tubing from tire shake] try different launch RPM, or leave off the foot brake and tire pressures [ MT suggests 7-7 .25, but i see some guys are running 5-5.25, but check to see how fast they are running]. One thing that helped our 7.0's 186-189mph car is changing to a 1.69 first gear so it will not hit the tires so hard, and I run a looser converter [ 8500 rpm] that also helps not hit the tires so hard.
About converters, your car will improve when you get the converter to cloer match you engines power range. example your converter is stallin/ flashing at 6.2k but if you engine "come-on" at 7k she wil struggle for 1000 rpm. best way to get the right converter is to dyno your engine, if that's not possible ball park idea is it should stall about 1000-1500 below your shift RPM.
Another idea is to aim your GoPro camera at your tack to play back the goPro to see what the RPM drops to right after the shift [ which is your true stall rpm].
This is no dought too much info, so feel free to call me , 805-444-4489, cell
Jon
