Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters

First run...

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dusterdave173:
betting $100 you had air in system

Fire up engine --get timing light blinking and just look--does it idle at one setting the advance as you raise RPM to about 3000 or so? If so it is not locked out--if raising RPM does not move timing it is locked out --at any rate--if locked out you can set timing at idle--set it on 38 degrees BTDC   If not locked out raise RPM ( with light blinking away) and when it quits advancing it means all mechanical advance is "in" so hold at that rpm and set it to 38 degrees BTDC  I guess you have a damper that is degree'd meaning it has numbers marked on it before TDC


Then see what it idels at--you must have at least 15 degrees at idle hopefully 18-20 or it will run hot
Will not take 2 minutes to check and report then I can tell you what to do next  we can fix it easy as pie
and

Lower that wheelie bar to about 2 3/4 inch off the ground with you in the car and tire pressure set  too high and when it does run you will be looking at the sky

This will take a few trips to the track but hang in there we will get you zooming in no time

SaltandPepper:
Dave...you are a god send. I am going to the shore for a week then I will be back on it...I attempted to move the distributer to adjust the timing and as I turned it the timing mark did not move...so it is locked out?...how in the world do you unlock it? As soon as I get back from the beach I will start to work on it again.

Roger:
From the photos it appears you have a VW Scirocco style radiator. They original style usually came a single row of cooling tubes and they all came with 180* flow, which was more restrictive than standard flow. Both the inlet and outlet to the radiator are on the same side of the tank they are attached to and the tank is divided in to 2 separate sections internally. Water flows into one side and through half the cooling tubes then has to flow into the other open header tank on the other end and make a 180* turn to flow back to the outlet. Small tube and restricted flow results, but I think your system will still work. You have a filler/upper hose attachment on the manifold very similar to mine. I've found that if I fill the cooling system until the water just starts to run into the upper hose and no more at rest, the car cools well and it doesn't puke any water. Having some air space in the filler/hose attachment is necessary for expansion. With the engine cold and not running, you should be able to remove the radiator fill cap and watch the water being pumped into the radiator if all is working well. On last thing I might suggest, don't pull out of the stating lanes unless the car is at 140* or less. I've found that running my pump from the staging lanes until I'm back in my pit helps, I gain about 50* of temp in the run process and the radiator fan is turned on as soon as I make the turn-around. Glad everything else appears to be working on the car, looks like you're on the right track:)

dusterdave173:
Check and see if is a crank trigger--does it have a pick up at the damper?  hey just get with me when you get back from vacation and call me 704 244 6649 we can go over a few things and get you rolling 
we are ALL on your side and will do our best   we have been there brother believe me

opa1:
Great to see it running. I Hope to have mine running before summer.

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