Powerglide fluid leak....

[SaltandPepper]

In taking my FED apart to repaint I noted I have a fluid leak from my powerglide. Talking to a buddy he told me it is most likely the shifter seal. I ordered a gasket rebuild kit with some Mobil 1 synthetic fluid along with a new filter. I have some mechanical ability but how much of a job is it to pull that shifter shaft and replace the seal? Can it be done from the bottom without pulling the tranny? I had planed to change the filter and fluids anyway so when I put it back together should I be worried about the fluid left in the converter? I just bought this and have no idea about the type of fluid it has in it now....The previous owner was deceased. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[opa1]

It depends on how much space you have to work with. You will have to pull the pan and remove the selector shaft to put the seal in. Most new style shafts have a extra o-ring to control leaks in that area. They are cheap and worth the investment. I advise you to run ford type F fluid. 

[jeff/21]

some times the case is worn even if you change the seal it will still usually when it's in park go through the gears check for excessive movement if so it's repairable
I always use ford type f most auto part stores will have to order it it's not common any more

[msundstrom]

I machine a groove in the shift shaft for an o-ring and use the seal also.
Mark S

[opa1]

No affiliation. I used this one. Nice piece.
  https://ftiperformance.com/Powerglide-2-Piece-Shift-Lever-Zinc-Chrome-F2555A.htm

[SaltandPepper]

I like that...for 15 bucks it would be worth the investment before I get into this

[bikeguy307]

Almost all the new levers/shafts have an o-ring on them. One word of advice do not over tighten the detent bolt when reinstalling the shifter.

[SaltandPepper]

Thanks to all...I did order that shaft. Room under the machine is not an issue due to the fact that I have a car lift so I will give this a try in about two weeks once I start to reassemble after the paint job. I guess I will go out and get some type F fluid. I tried to search the archives and that is where I came up with the Mobil 1 but if you all recommend type F I will listen. I found the procedure for shaft replacement on the net and it does not seem too difficult so the only question I have still in play is if I should worry about the fluid in the converter when I change it. Like I said I have no info on this machine and I do not know as of yet if the converter has a drain plug in it. If it does I could drain the converter and pump a quart of new fluid back into it but if not I am not too keen in pulling the tranny just to get to the converter for that purpose. I would rather just spend the money and change the fluid a few times to try and get as much of the old out as I could. I don't know if this means anything but the old fluid is a gold color, like engine oil, not red....I have no idea as to what type it is. Any guidance on this question would be appreciated.

[bikeguy307]

If the current doesn't look bad, and pan shows nothing out of the norm, then I would run it and do a drain and fill a few weeks into the season. The gold color could be anything from a specialty fluid to a hydrastat fluid. We did a track side build once and got fluid from like 5 different people, (each was different brand)  Royal Purple, B&M, Type F, Amsoil, but we gathered enough to get it full, and he raced it for 2 seasons like that.

[Paul New]

When we switched from ATF to hydraulic fluid in our car we just dropped pan once we had it back together and full of Luis we pulled the cooler line and started the car while dumping new fluid in until the color changed yes we went through a little extra fluid but it was pretty clear.

[jeff/21]

Paul New what differences did you find after the change to  hydraulic fluid ?

[Paul New]

Converter was a little tighter