Technical > Matt Shaff's Engine Shop

Engine parts coatings

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buickfed:
been reading up on some of the material finishes for cranks, cam, bearings, etc and wondering if anybody has used them or know of other experiences. there is rem, microblue, moly and who knows what else is out there.

I have to find something for the dist/cam gear combo. a stock buick 350 will go 300k and not have any dist/cam gear wear. start adding higher oil pressure, which we need, bigger cams and more rpm, we develop a lot of dist/cam gear wear. used to replace mine every year. going to amsoil helped to make it last longer, but still have wear.

JrFuel Hayden:
I don't race a Buick, but my iron SBC we had trouble with the mag gear wearing also, in my raised cam Dart block. What we found was because of the raised cam the mag was not lined up to the cam right.
Once we installed a wedge under the mag so the gear was lined up right , my mag gear wearing went away. I have not replaced the gear in 5 years since the wedge.
I wonder why you have to run higher oil pressure ? When I 1'st starting crewing on our JrFueler I bought a RacePak mostly because my 10 years of driving dragsters was only with clutches, so I figuered I needed more info about this converter stuff. The 1'st thing we learned was we had too much oil pressure , like 100 lbs, and the bearings looked OK, kinda cloudy, but not worn out. When we lowered the presuure down to 60-65 lbs in my 10k rpm engine , the bearings looked real good, enough so even after running 80+ runs on the alum rods  [ time to replace them] the rod bearings look so good I just put them in the new rods, not because of the cost but because they are good and broke-in.
The only trick thing I've done on one of cranks is micro-polishing, cost $500, and it looked like it was chromed, untill I had to have the crank ground and the chrome look went away after it was heat treaded.
I've tried some coatings on my pistons, but no advantage, I know the blown Nitro guys do coat their pistons, different coatings on the top then the skirts.
I hope this info helps.
Jon

buickfed:
buicks have a notorious bad oiling system which leads to bearing failure plus. the p/up tube is the back and the pump is on the timing cover. to get oil to 7 & 8 rod bearings(1.88)/mains, oil travel is about 5'. if you have ever seen any of the buick engines(not nailheads), we have a t/c that isn't very thick and I think does flex enough to sometime make matters worse. a lot of head scratching goes into building and maintaining a buick engine. you don't know it, but you chevy guys have it easy. tons of a/market better parts.

3k rpm is not a problem for a stock engine. once we start upping the h/p, we up the oil pressure to assure the thing doesn't blow up. there are plenty of broken v6's and 455's in the scrap yard. the 350 tends to do better because of where the c/shaft sits in the block. new chevy motors c/shafts are built like the buick 350.
also we(my son) turn between 65-7500 rpm with a blower on it. xxxx kid.

JrFuel Hayden:
Have you thought about an external oil pump, like Daily or Patterson ? The pumps can be a problem with chassis clearance. Of course a dry sump system would be the best.

Jon

Frontenginedragsters:

--- Quote from: JrFuel Hayden on December 05, 2017, 05:42:44 PM ---Have you thought about an external oil pump, like Daily or Patterson ? The pumps can be a problem with chassis clearance. Of course a dry sump system would be the best.

Jon

--- End quote ---

Jon is right on.
We built a Buick bracket engine many years ago and the owner was aware of the oil pump problems.
We used a Peterson external oil pump and never looked back.
I think the up front cost more than makes up for problems later using a stock type oil system.

Matt Shaff

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