Author Topic: fed weight  (Read 21033 times)

Offline noslin

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 259
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 0.00
  • Your Engine: none
  • Your Track: none
  • Your Vehicle: none
  • General Location: west coast
fed weight
« on: August 11, 2017, 09:02:09 PM »
What is the guess for 225'' fed with blown 426 8-71 alum block and heads.  No dry sump tank. Glide 9" .  Im guessing about 1800lbs

Ty dean

Offline JrFuel Hayden

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 600
    • View Profile
    • Hayden Enterprises Speciality Wheels
  • Your Best Time: 6.02, 236 mph, 1/4 in 1973 Div 3 TF Champ
  • Your Engine: SBC, Alky, 403 ci, Best 6.99 @ 190 & 409 Hemi
  • Your Track: Bakersfield
  • Your Vehicle: 225" FED NHRA Heritage Jr Fuel
Re: fed weight
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2017, 10:37:28 PM »
Yes Ty, you are close, depending on the rest of the car. The NHRA Heritage rules for A/fd [ injected nitro or blown alky] have a min weight, with driver is 1875 lbs. I thinks it's 1850 with a PG.
And the blown 426 style with either PG or Lenco drive, with dry sump, and full body weigh about that.   
Brad Peters [ John Feight Train, son] just picked -up their new Neil & Parks  7.0 Pro/ A/FD that will be running Brad Anderson/ AJP blown alky engine. They are hoping to have it ready at CHRR.
Wayne Ramay, our ex JF driver,  is waiting for N & P to build his FED to run blown alky AJP 426 style engine.

I hope this helps,
Jon
Jon C. Hansen

Hayden Wheels

Offline Paul New

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 744
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 6.47 @ 214 MPH SBC
  • Your Engine: 387" SBC
  • Your Track: Woodburn Dragstrip
  • Your Vehicle: 2005 FED
Re: fed weight
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2017, 08:32:01 AM »
My 200" blown SBC, dry dump, clutch, with a 3 speed, and me in it is 1800 lbs

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: fed weight
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2017, 09:19:40 AM »
426 motors are boat anchor heavy  100# more then a alu 417 Donovan
 My 193"  Blown alu SBC with a glide and 9"   1650# with driver and 120# lead on the nose.
Except for the Alu front spindles which were given to me, did not work at trying to make it lite, just did not add all the junk (GL notice I did not say &#@$) that people seem to want to put on their cars today.

Offline dusterdave173

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 638
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.38in 1/8th
  • Your Engine: 355 CI SBC
  • Your Track: Mooresville, NC
  • Your Vehicle: CenPen 200 inch FED
Re: fed weight
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2017, 07:24:23 AM »
Most fun day of my build was when I first weighed my 200 in SBC dragster--it weighed exactly 1320 lbs on the nose--I smiled pretty big on that one!
I have always had a fascination with fast cars at the expense of more normal character development

Offline Mrs Esterhouse

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 25
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 8.65 1/4 mile
  • Your Engine: SBC
  • Your Track: none
  • Your Vehicle: fed
  • General Location: midwest
Re: fed weight
« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2017, 10:15:49 AM »
1 pound per foot of track, cool.

Offline JrFuel Hayden

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 600
    • View Profile
    • Hayden Enterprises Speciality Wheels
  • Your Best Time: 6.02, 236 mph, 1/4 in 1973 Div 3 TF Champ
  • Your Engine: SBC, Alky, 403 ci, Best 6.99 @ 190 & 409 Hemi
  • Your Track: Bakersfield
  • Your Vehicle: 225" FED NHRA Heritage Jr Fuel
Re: fed weight
« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2017, 12:23:18 PM »
Dave, was that with or with-out driver. NHRA Heritage, and All NHRA classes are weighted with driver.
My 1963 nitro JrFueler weighted 890 lbs, [wet] with out driver. Our current Heritage JF weighs 1450 with 150 lb driver.
 Cheers, Jon
Jon C. Hansen

Hayden Wheels

Offline noslin

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 259
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 0.00
  • Your Engine: none
  • Your Track: none
  • Your Vehicle: none
  • General Location: west coast
Re: fed weight
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2017, 05:49:19 PM »
426 motors are boat anchor heavy  100# more then a alu 417 Donovan
 My 193"  Blown alu SBC with a glide and 9"   1650# with driver and 120# lead on the nose.
Except for the Alu front spindles which were given to me, did not work at trying to make it lite, just did not add all the junk (GL notice I did not say &#@$) that people seem to want to put on their cars today.

what does it matter what crap (or whatever you feel like calling it) is on the car or what motor  is in it, or how someone builds there 'junk' just as long as they can hit the number.....  just bracket racing after all right!

Offline rooman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 559
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 6.200/222.05 (1/4 mile--NT/F)
Re: fed weight
« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2017, 05:19:39 AM »
Even with all of the "junk", Mark Vaught's aluminum small block 225" car went across the Bakersfield scales at 1575 with me (200lbs) in the seat and about 30 lbs of ballast in the nose. Horan Sr's NT/F was 1930lbs with a dry sumped Donovan, me in the car and about 50 lbs of ballast.

Roo
Yeah, I am from the south--any further south and I would have been a bloody penguin.

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: fed weight
« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2017, 10:02:35 AM »
426 motors are boat anchor heavy  100# more then a alu 417 Donovan
 My 193"  Blown alu SBC with a glide and 9"   1650# with driver and 120# lead on the nose.
Except for the Alu front spindles which were given to me, did not work at trying to make it lite, just did not add all the junk (GL notice I did not say &#@$) that people seem to want to put on their cars today.

what does it matter what crap (or whatever you feel like calling it) is on the car or what motor  is in it, or how someone builds there 'junk' just as long as they can hit the number.....  just bracket racing after all right!

To answer your first question and your second. What matters is this---- In the type of cars we race, if you remove the engine for now, If you remove all that is not nessesary to pass tech and safely go down the track, all cars weigh about the same, the difference between 200" and 225" is about 10' of extra tubing, or 7 1/2#. There is nothing extra on my car thats not required and did not spend any effort in time and material to make it any lighter, no reason to due to the index, that is the benchmark. If you remove the 120# lead and 230# driver from the across scale weight of 1650# the weight becomes  1300# with engine. Is the difference in weight between my alu SBC w/ 6-71 and the 426 w/ 8-71  500#s???,  this is the "long block" we are talking about because both use simular externals and cancel each other out. If the weight difference is only 200#, whats the other 300#, if your weight of 1800# includes a 200# driver, you are still carrying an extra 100# if not, it reverts back to 300# heavy.
 The question asked if an 1800# car can run on the index- yes, one just needs to make more power over the lighter cars
  the formula for that is   #(weight) devided by ET3 X 197.14. The HP number needed to accelerate a given mass and required time and distance
  So my 1650# car to run the 1/4 in 7.0 seconds  would be 1650 / 343 (7.0 cubed) = 4.81,  4.81 X 197.14= 948 HP
  1800# would be   1800 / 343 = 5.25  ,  5.25 X 197.14 = 1034HP
  If you are confident that your 426 can produce (safely) 1050 HP to run 7.0 then you are fine , if not then you have to look into the "Extras" to reduce weight or spend more money to make power.
  2000# (w/driver) is  1150HP
« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 04:24:45 PM by dreracecar »

Offline noslin

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 259
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 0.00
  • Your Engine: none
  • Your Track: none
  • Your Vehicle: none
  • General Location: west coast
Re: fed weight
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2017, 01:28:59 PM »
Bruce,

thank you for your explanation, it is appreciated.  i can see where you would be coming from when a person asks a broad weight question such as this as it would equate to HP and this does as well.  i like formulas and check the dream wheel quite often crunching numbers.   even with all the added seemingly unnecessary junk on the car, i can not see a blown 426 using kb block alum heads etc safely making 1100hp ( i know there is more to it then that general statement).   where figuring it will have to be underdriven a bit (12 to 15lb) to get the number. this of course is assuming the tune is correct. one nice thing is im a bean pole and only weigh 200lbs so money ahead there :D

Bruce, how much boost are you putting to your small block, rpm, etc.

Offline dusterdave173

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 638
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.38in 1/8th
  • Your Engine: 355 CI SBC
  • Your Track: Mooresville, NC
  • Your Vehicle: CenPen 200 inch FED
Re: fed weight
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2017, 03:01:07 PM »
mine was less driver--but it was a fun number
I have always had a fascination with fast cars at the expense of more normal character development

Offline masracingtd1167

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1110
  • bill masiello Shelton Ct.
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 7.40's at 181 on motor 6.94 at 192 nitrous
  • Your Engine: 394 chevy
  • Your Track: Lebanon Valley Dragway
  • Your Vehicle: 2003 Neil and Parks
Re: fed weight
« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2017, 03:12:03 PM »
If I fill my chassis and tires with helium will it be lighter ? I just could not resist !!!

Offline wideopen231

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1911
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 1/8 3.70@ 198 1/4 5.78@245
  • Your Engine: Hemi 526 ci alcohol
  • Your Track: Piedmont
  • Your Vehicle: 225 CMC FED
  • General Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Re: fed weight
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2017, 03:13:11 PM »
1100 hp wth KB block and aluminum head is nothing.Same engine use to be in 8000 hp TF car.   Same thing alky cars ran for years with 2500 to 3000 hp. My injected  TFX92,BAE heads should be very close to 1100 hp. and that bracket race combo. I would not  think twice about 2000 hp with that combo.
Relecting obama is like shooting right foot because it did not hurt enough when you shot left foot

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: fed weight
« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2017, 04:21:47 PM »
Depending on air conditions, my blower only sees 22# of boost whether the OD is 5% or 21% , it just cavitates at that point---which is good because its consistent, re-striping it takes time to settle in and become consistent and you wind up chasing the tune-up.  The only thing OD gives you is when the blower comes up to full boost, Lots of OD the boost comes in quicker where as low OD numbers you are further down the track. Lots of time gets eaten up during the start of the race and is the point of course adjustment to get down to the index number or slow down.
 Using a 33 x 12 x 15 tire and a 3.90 rear gear -- trap rpm is around 7800 @ 200mph with a converter