new experiences - my 225" fed

[ricardo1967]

Nice ride and hemi Noslin, congratulations! Keep us posted.

[noslin]

thank you,

tonight Jeff brought over the blower and hat to set on. gives the car a different look.  got us excited and motivated.   i also started to mess with the cowl.  never really hammered aluminum like it needs to be at the firewall.     i have made a few mistakes on the cowl as i did not know. but, if i screw up to bad, ill just do another one. learning as i go along and thats the best part about doing the build.




here is pic of housing, third member, axles. 

[noslin]

ok,  been a tough week haha.. no sleep and wanting to leave work with race car on mind... racecaritis lol

i wanted to get the body done, back half.  been looking at pics, looking at lines on the car etc to come up with idea on back side panel.   i got the back side panel, middle panel, and cowl cut to shape and dzus'd. on the back side panel, after i establish windshield heigh ill cut back to face of bars at top of windshield and then ill radius the back part at the 90* and im going to roll the long angled back side a bit. i wanted to do a big roll but didnt leave enough so ill put a little one in for strength and to soften the look up a bit.

 here are some pics of the windshield mockup.  i wanted the windshield to look someone symmetrical all way around and follow the longitudinal cowl lines.  after i cut the mockup out and taped back on, it slopes down on the back sides toward the cage but its parallel to the cutout.  for height, i split from top of cowl at cage to top of back side panel;  so its about 3.5 inch tall.  you see  a lot of different ideas with windshields on cars. i didnt car much for the ones that are real high in front so to have top of windshield level.  i kind of wonder if i should make it taller and go all way up to top of side panel.  if i did that, it would probably be about chin level at front of it.  idk lol.  decisions... decisions. 

first time hammering out something, good thing i know a few body guys and have some bondo to fill in the craters.   

im open to suggestions on windshield.   

ty
dean

[dreracecar]

Move the car outside and stand way back to get a good perspective from different angles, 5 ft is not enough to take in all the lines and angles to get flow

[JrFuel Hayden]

Good looking car, Are you going to race 7.0 Pro or 7.60 [NE-1] in the Heritage series ?
Call me if you need wire front wheels and tires or 12" wide Goodyear slicks,
Jon, 805-444-4489

[noslin]

Good looking car, Are you going to race 7.0 Pro or 7.60 [NE-1] in the Heritage series ?
Call me if you need wire front wheels and tires or 12" wide Goodyear slicks,
Jon, 805-444-4489

id like to run 7.0 pro and run NE1 with the Nor Cal Nostalgia Eliminator group unless they get 7.0 class rolling.  ill prob run MM, CHRR, and whatever races at sac they have for Heritage Series.

i have set of new wire wheels from you to sale that i was going to use on it before i found a killer deal on the weld's. The welds are not 'vintage' looking but neither is the chassis either as its more modern style.

thanks Bruce, thats a great idea and ill do that.  im going to get some more paper and make few different heights and check it out. 

dean

[dreracecar]

To cut my windscreens, I set up a tri-pod with a cross-hair lazer, it will line around a curve, just "dot" with a sharpie along the line and finish off when flat.

[noslin]

To cut my windscreens, I set up a tri-pod with a cross-hair lazer, it will line around a curve, just "dot" with a sharpie along the line and finish off when flat.

oh bitchn idea, thank you.  have tri-pod and lazer at work i can use.  thank you

[noslin]

frustrations of new build...     

figured it would be best to bring the KB over and drop in to see what problems might arise.. a few.

• /wanted to see if we could do on board starter and it will not work. i think the issue is not enough room on this chassis.  so external blower or some other configuration will have to be done.
• • oil pump that came with the KB will not work. actually about the only thing that will work is an adapter plate to external "something"   so need to figure that out.  what type of pump, where to mount, etc     
  • lastly is the head on the right side, it hits the firewall  below are a few pics.  so Jeff painfully took off 1/4" but then i put the cowl on and it really needs another 1/4" to be safe.  this is cutting into the freeze plug hole.  he cut to the freeze plug and didn't want to cut anymore as he has no idea how far in the plug could go if it could go any,  will prob use these heads on a street car down the road, and also the frustration of having to widdle on brand new heads.  so, the delima is what to do.  the head needs to be relieved straight up to allow the body to slip on and off.   right now, if we could stick a 1/4" spacer in between motor plate and motor that would help a bunch but i have no clue on the flex plate, how this will affect torque convertor/ trans interaction, etc.  dont really know what to do here.  but 1/4" spacer plate would be easiest if it all would work.  maybe space the flext plate out?  idk if thats a legitimate thing to do etc. 
  
  so the head is probably the major road block then the pump.  pump is no big deal and starter isnt either.. just cost money over being able to run on-board and wetsump pump which is quite a bit.
  
  here are some pics.
   
  here you can see how much needs to be cut without the body.
  
  
  here you can see where he cut but with the body, it needs more. plus needs to cut up so body can come off.
  
  
  
  
  
  

[noslin]

 
  oil pump that came with the KB will not work. actually about the only thing that will work is an adapter plate to external "something"   so need to figure that out.  what type of pump, where to mount, etc     
 
 

fig the oil pump issue out, it will fit up in there just a tight fit.

ty
dean

[noslin]

i think ill weld 1/4" plate to the inside of the motor plate about 3/4" or so and then cut the motor plate down about 1/2" or so around the top so the body will fit and the motor will snug up. i think i can make it look ok and not have to grind on the head much more.

[dreracecar]

If you weld to the motor plate, you will take all the heat treat out of it. you will turn T6 into "O" condition and have to re-heat it back to T6.

[glofria]

Regarding the oil pump, we had to think outside of the box because we use (and build our own) a dry sump pump. And the only way to make it work was to put it under and offset of the oil pan as scene in this photo.

Another way we have mounted a dry sump was to mount it inline and in front of the fuel pump by turning it around and plumbing it backwards.

[glofria]

Here is an shot of the restored "Panic Mouse" Blown Fuel Flat that I pulled of the web with the sump pump that is cam drive.

[GlennLever]