Technical > Matt Shaff's Engine Shop
Engine is stiff, hard to turn over???
Paul New:
--- Quote from: coupemerc on June 21, 2017, 02:54:38 PM ---Do yourself a favor and go through the whole motor and check EVERYTHING! Breaking a crank is about as bad as it gets. Check the main webs in the block for cracks and check the main line too. Good luck
--- End quote ---
All parts have a life cycle and you exceeded it. Worst part is finding when that life cycle is
dreracecar:
The first pic was confusing because you had rotated the crank and by shear luck lined back up to the rod journal.
By the discription of your first post, the thought of a broken crank never would have been in my thought process. Completely broken and you were able to start it, no noise and do a burnout????
dreracecar:
--- Quote from: Paul New on June 21, 2017, 03:17:55 PM ---
--- Quote from: coupemerc on June 21, 2017, 02:54:38 PM ---Do yourself a favor and go through the whole motor and check EVERYTHING! Breaking a crank is about as bad as it gets. Check the main webs in the block for cracks and check the main line too. Good luck
--- End quote ---
All parts have a life cycle and you exceeded it. Worst part is finding when that life cycle is
--- End quote ---
Fairly new motor as I understand it. Have a $2500 billet Valasco in my motor going on 25 years now
JrFuel Hayden:
Yes, I've been racing my 36 lb Crower crank for 9 years, at 10,000rpm, in my SBC.
I also keep track of all runs on my crank, and rods. I keep track of it on my RacePak, and on my run sheets.
Yes all parts have a life cycle, but don't get confused with Big Show blown Nitro, where they only get 2-4 runs on a crank, breaking at a rod journal, but they are making 10-11k HP
Glenn, I assume your Eagle crank was not a cast crank, but forged.
Any signs of pre-ignition, that can hurt a crank, & rods too. IE. black spots on the plugs.
Jon
GlennLever:
No pre-ignition, running 30 degrees of timing.
Forged 4340 crank, four years, at the most 600 runs, aluminum rods
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