HRR 2017

[gregm784]

Nice run Glenn.  8.07 on an 8.00 index. 

Why did they shut you off the first time?  Very cool they let you run again.

[GlennLever]

Nice run Glenn.  8.07 on an 8.00 index. 

Why did they shut you off the first time?  Very cool they let you run again.

Our mistake, we left a petcock  open on the cooling system. They allowed us to close it and make the run.

Water grains were at 115, haven't had much experience with that level, the tuneup in the dragster would normally have run around 7.85

Thanks

[dreracecar]

That much water in the air and running alc, make sure to spray the injector with windsheild de-icer before the burnout. we lost at the HRR in Ohio when the blades iced shut and the motor quit.

[GlennLever]

That much water in the air and running alc, make sure to spray the injector with windsheild de-icer before the burnout. we lost at the HRR in Ohio when the blades iced shut and the motor quit.

You should see the frost on the hat when we warm the engine up, thanks for the tip.

[dusterdave173]

great tip DRE  we run here in the South with giant humidity this time of year--that is if we leave the house LOL At my age I am usually an early season and fall guy now--98 degrees with 80 % humidity --you put your helmet on and its like having your head stuck inside a pickle jar!!  Our trick is get a bilge fan from marine store and run a hose to the helmet--Fresh air system for under $100
Way to go Glenn

[dreracecar]

In line while being towed up thru staging someone should have the helmet in front of the A/C vent and wait till the last second to put it on.

  Also (but could be problematic if you had a big fire) is to keep your head sock in the ice chest--really wakes you up when you put it on

[GlennLever]

Ok..here is the update.

Went up for our first round of eliminations.

Started fine, then it sounded like the starter was hung up in the flex plate, revved it up and the sound did not go away.

Shut it off and started it up, started fine. What the heck try a burn out  to see if it would shake it free.

Half way through the burn out it shut off.

Pulled over to the wall, and got out.

Opponent made his run.

Got back in and was pushed back, and went to the pits.

Starter strains to turn the engine over.

Drained the oil, no metal, but little tiny bits of red, looks and feels like RTV. No red RTV was used building the engine only black and silver.

I have a System 1 remote filter, dumped it and no metal. Found one ore two of the tiny red bits.

Put  new oil in, new starter and it still strains to turn it over.

Pulled the blower belt, blower is not seized.

Pulled one valve cover, all looks normal, I forgot to turn the engine over to check to see if the rocker arms were moving, Think they are ok as there are no strange noises. This will have to be checked when I get home.

There are no strange noises from the bottom end when turned over with the starter.

Pulled all the plugs the front two were the hottest, discoloration all the way around the end of the plug, but not into the treads.

Used a bore scope in those two cylinders, tops of the pistons look brand new, cross hatching on the cylinder walls still look new.

I'm perplexed. Put it all back together, and put it in the trailer. When I get home the first thing I will do is pull the torque converter bolts.

Next would be to pull the pan and see if the rods will move, then maybe pull the main caps.

I'm open to ideas.

[Paul New]

Have you turned the engine by hand with a ratchet? Does it turn over harder than normal with a ratchet? When you spun it with the starter do you have oil pressure? Lots of questions to ask but you haven't dug in to far yet unbolt the converter from the flexplate

[GlennLever]

Engine is way to stiff to turn over with a ratchet on the crankshaft.

I have not looked at the oil pressure gauge while turning the engine over.

Data logger says there was 80 psi of oil pressure at the end of the preceding run.

Halfway home now, have stopped for the evening just south of Cleveland.

I hope to have the dragster out of the trailer and into the garage tomorrow. I have a steep driveway and need help to do that.

First order of business is to pull both valve covers and see if the rocker arms are moving up and down

Second is to separate the torque converter from the flex plate

[Paul New]

Engine is way to stiff to turn over with a ratchet on the crankshaft.

I have a 3' long 1/2" drive ratchet that I use to spin my engine over off the blower drive. Do you not do this to adjust your valves. I pull my valve covers between every pass to check lash and verify nothing is broke. We have done this procedure since we were a 9 second car.

[GlennLever]

Engine is way to stiff to turn over with a ratchet on the crankshaft.

I have a 3' long 1/2" drive ratchet that I use to spin my engine over off the blower drive. Do you not do this to adjust your valves. I pull my valve covers between every pass to check lash and verify nothing is broke. We have done this procedure since we were a 9 second car.

That is exactly what I have (well not exactly, I took a 1/2 drive ratchet and welded a piece of pipe to the handle. With this it takes a great deal of effort to pull the engine over at the blower,

[gregm784]

hope you find it and i hope it is simple.  we were racing friday & saturday at 100 GPP of water.  Can't burn water......ran 7.75 first pass, turned the blower up 4% and put a degree in it, ran 7.55.  The air came to us for elims, i took 2% out of blower, left the degree (water was still 92gpp).  Ran 7.633

[gregm784]

Headed to Famoso to try again this weekend, only supposed to be 103 there. yay.  Why didn't i take up fishing again?

[Paul New]

Woodburn is only supposed to be 93 this weekend

[JrFuel Hayden]

Glenn, if it was me I'd do a cylinder leak down before I tear it all apart. One time we had a problem with the torque converter pushing on the crank, because the adapter for the Hemi got in wrong, so we ended up wearing the main bearing thrust out.
The only time we have a problem turning the motor over is when we install the rockers with the firing order, just too unbalanced with just some of the valve springs installed. Once all the springs are active, no problem.
The one odd deal we had was after installing block filler in a new/old Hemi block, and then letting it set for a few weeks so we could have it all machined. We then sent it to Gene Adams [ mister Early Hemi] , he said  " they these bores are not round" I said " how can anyone bore  square holes" anyway Gene had it rehoned with his guy. when we raced it at the 2016 March Meet, it was 1 1/2 to 2 tenths slower with the very same combo/ tune up we had last. After the second race we had low cylinder leak down in a couple of holes. At home we pulled the heads and found 2 pistons were scuffed in the wrist pin areas, not on the skirts.
Ya even Gene said he'd never seen anything like that. We had a couple of spare pistons, so I took the block back to our machine shop to hone the alum out. But they told us we better have a look at the block, the bores were not round again. They told us they ran into something like that a couple of months ago, with a race engine customer that had also installed block filler, but before the engine was put together , he changed his mind and wanted to run bigger pistons. He asked if they could install bigger sleeves to run biger pistons [ alum block]. As it turned out after putting the block in an over to get the old sleeves out, they could not remove the sleeves after using block filler. The shop told him they could just bore it another .30 with the sleeves he had. When they measured the bore they also found they were not round. after putting the block in the oven 3 times, it stopped changing size. The thought of course was the block filler was still expanding, at least when it got hot, like when we raced the Hemi. Yes the Hemi turned over hard, with the scuffed pistons. What I did is have QMP  Race put the Hemi block in the oven until it also stopped changing, so I could order the right size pistons.
Well , "that's racing "
Jon