Heat bending is the proper way to do this. "ANY" comercially availble bender will crush the bend into the tube, whether it be a mandrel type or not for just a small bend area, its not as noticable when doing a longer bend.
Its best to mark off a 6" area where the bend will be a heat the area with a "rosebud" tip, keeping a higher percentage of the heat to the inside of the bend because you want to compress the ID over stretching the OD. The longer the sweep 6" vs 2" does not distrupt the material flow and less likely to kink the bend.
It can be tricky, and is why a lot of shops build these "OIL DERRICK" frames instead of being more traditonal
Pro tool, JD Square are junk for doing thin wall moly tubing because its a mandrel action without the mandrel and without it, the OD stretches and deforms the tubing and the bend is "EGG Shaped", do a bend with one of these type, cut the bend in the middle, rotate 180* and try and weld the 2 back together without using any rod