Q.D. coupler used for Primer Bottle

[captndiet]

On injected fuel motors, many use a bottle or box to start the engine on Alky then switch over to fuel once warm.

What quick disconnect coupler do they use between the bottle and the distribution block?

Brand and/or size?

See attached borrowed photo.

Jeff

[dreracecar]

mostly what I have seen is a hand bottle or drip system for starting injected motors in the classes we run. Since the BV is in top of the Dist block, extra plumbing gets involved. There is no pump shown in the pic posted and lines are disconnected, could be what you are looking at is a system flush, whereas they run gas thu the motor with a pressure bottle to the normal feed line and not a primer/warmup setup.
 Any dissconnects should be brass (air line) and always have a spare on hand.
 Personally I dont see a huge need for a seperate warmup tank on an injected motor, if running fuel, fill the reg tank with straight alc, and trim back the fuel shutoff to lean it out a little so that the idle rpms start to rise, build heat, drain tank and fill with your favorite mix--party on!!!.  The cost is ZERO, and reduces the chance of leaks

[Spud Miller]

  Hi Jeff,

 That is indeed a start-up/warm-up bottle you're looking at in the pic. I built a "docking station" on the front of the engine and it plugs into that for use. We use a Parker hydraulic quick-connect setup. In the pic, we just wanted to fire it to check for tranny pressure so we didn't want to run any nitro. The main fuel tank was empty (we didn't want to fill it) and the running engine would have been spinning the pump dry, so we just removed it.

 The bottle is a CO2 paintball tank that I've removed the end from and tapped -8. I put a fill cap on the other end with a valve in it to vent so the vent can be closed (we can lay it down in the back of the tow rig and not leak) as well as a valve to shut it off above the quick-connect.

 The bottle will run the engine for about 2 minutes before it runs out. The idle nozzles have been sized so that they deliver the right amount when just feeding from gravity. I think they are currently matched .028's. When warming up at the track, we go through one bottle checking the timing and trans pressure. We refill, discuss the state of things, fire again and then switch over to nitro to adjust idle and stage volume.

 When switching over, we open the regular fuel shut-off until we hear the sound of the engine start to change. The regular system starts back feeding into the warm up bottle and we turn it off and disconnect it. What's left in the warm up bottle has nitro in it and can't be used again for start up.

 When the weekend is over, I always rinse the warm up bottle in the parts washer and poke up into the quick connect to allow solvent to wash through the fitting. Otherwise, methanol gets trapped in it and it will rust up. I have used brass quick connects before, but lately we use steel and just take care of it. Also, quick connect fittings have an o-ring in them. The o-ring can swell up from nitro and cause you problems. So, we replace ours every season.

 I really like the warm up bottle approach and in my opinion, it's the safest way to start up when running nitro. I think if a person is running more than 50% or so, they should figure out a safe way to start the engine. Cranking a motor over with nitro (even a little bit) in the cylinders can be deadly. There are several different ways to do a system like this that are fairly easy. Mine wasn't the simplest to put together but it's very easy to use.

 Spud

[captndiet]

Thanks for the info Spud.

That was what I needed.

Jeff

[dreracecar]

 I really like the warm up bottle approach and in my opinion, it's the safest way to start up when running nitro.

why would this be safer the a drip system--- still gravity fed, can be completly removed off of car leaving no extra lines and disconnects

[H.G. Wells]

Spud, I have a friend who uses the same set up on a hat system. No good way to use a dripper on that, but I did not think about running the pump dry. How long could you run one on a primer system without fuel in the pump and not do damage?

[Spud Miller]

Spud, I have a friend who uses the same set up on a hat system. No good way to use a dripper on that, but I did not think about running the pump dry. How long could you run one on a primer system without fuel in the pump and not do damage?

I would never run the pump (engine running) without fuel in it.

Spud

[Spud Miller]

 I really like the warm up bottle approach and in my opinion, it's the safest way to start up when running nitro.

why would this be safer the a drip system--- still gravity fed, can be completly removed off of car leaving no extra lines and disconnects

A dripper system would not be my first choice. Definitely simpler plumbing (there isn't any) but getting it to leak evenly out of 8 holes
and controlling the amount ingested can be more of a challenge than one would suspect. Also, a lean backfire through the intake and the whole thing could end up on fire. Since a primer bottle system utilizes nozzles under the butterflies, engine vacuum helps draw it in making it very even.

 To each, his own.

 Spud

[slingshot383]

TORR makes hydraulic fittings in a lot of different sizes, and they are available with either Butyl or Viton o-rings, the Viton is more chemical and heat resistant.  We actually use them as quick disconnects for vacuum lines in Autoclaves as the Viton is good to 450*.