Motor dies

[GlennLever]

thanks Glenn sound just like our problem
what pump did you use?

Bruce 6 gmp
75 inches long tube with 12 inch of #12 hoses
1 inch od
.822 id

we are going to put a baffle with a doors
Does the baffle go all the way to the top of the tank?

we are trying to come after you Glenn and the rest of the pro comp gang 

Just got home from Gateway, will look it up tomorrow.

[hotrod316]

thanks all cutter her up this am

[GlennLever]

This is what I started out with. The pump was later replaced with another one as this one did not have enough power.



I put the small tank in stream in the return line to the tank. That way once it has been started the first time at a race it is always full until you empty it at the end of a race.





The feed to the pump comes off the bottom of the tank.



The line from the pump goes into the distribution block for the injectors, with a check valve.



Now I can give the engine a shot of alcohol anytime I need to.

I cannot find a shot of the pump, I will have to go over to where the dragster is stored and get a shot for you.

[hotrod316]

thanks Glenn

[dreracecar]

Gimmicks, lots of cars dont use that--whats so different??

[GlennLever]

Gimmicks, lots of cars dont use that--whats so different??

I believe what causes my problem with the engine quitting is the shape of the tank.

Being long and narrow causes the fuel to run away from the pickup with negative G's.

Not a gimmick if it solves the problem.

[dreracecar]

Built correctly and there wouldnt be a problem.

 Had an oppertunity to play with "fluid motion" graphics program, played with size, shape, volume, and forces, It can be made to work

[JrFuel Hayden]

Glenn, I think you are right about the fuel tank shape. When Dave Tuttle build our car in 1997, he asked about what Bud wanted for a tank, and we were going to race the car and not build a show car, Bud wanted a tank that would not die after a burn-out or after the finish line, he built a kinda tall tank, it's a 4 gal tank that is 10" tall, & 16" long, with a baffle/shelf about 3" from the bottom, and about 1" open on each end of the tank with one hole under the fuel cap so the tech guys can do the fuel check [ must be pure alky], no hinged baffle. We have never had a problem with fuel supply.
BTW, if you'll notice the big show cars have tall tanks. Now when I had my nitro JrFuel car in the 60's, we made a cute little tank no higher than the top frame rail, and widge shape, BUT that was during the time of no burn-outs, just push start from the big end, change lanes behind the start line, and go with a flagman and smoke the tires about half track, no VHT.
Glenn I know you may not like our tank design, because of your full body, but a 10" tall tank has worked perfect for us. 
I hope this helps.
Jon

[GlennLever]

I have no choice if I want to run the full body, which I do.

With the new tank having a baffle and trap door the engine no longer dies after the burn out.

The primer pump solved the problem up on the big end. I can now make the turn of the track under power.

Glenn

[dreracecar]

Burnouts without a problem

[ricardo1967]

Nice article here: The Perfect Fuel Tank, by Spud (our sponsor).

[dreracecar]

left a lot out of the artical

  5052 H32 aluminum because its very corrosion resistent , this material was created for the boating industry.
  .080 in this material is hard to work with using hand tools and to form radius edges for the edges to ensure proper welding. .063 is a little easier to work with but a little harder to weld than .080.

[nostalgic371]

.080 5052 aluminum is a little more effort to work, but worth it in my opinion. Polishes a bit better than 3003 alloy for sure! Spud's article has a lot of ideas on tank design, and he's a down-to-earth good guy to work with as well.

[dreracecar]

In you opinion, what reason do you give for .080 over .063??
 I have made many using both thickness, but also have heavier duty equipment to work the thicker material

[nostalgic371]

    I have equipment that can handle the thicker material as well so I try to go with the .080 5052 on a fuel tank. I use a radius brake for the largest section, a Pullmax to form the ends, and a Eckold machine to shrink where needed. I figure the heavier wall may hold up better for a longer period of use, so I feel I might as well go with it when I can. But then for something smaller and not carrying weight like a puke tank, I would go with a lighter thickness. Around what time did 5052 first come in to use anyway? I still much prefer using annealed 3003 H14 for deep shaping, but only if corrosion resistance and polishing are not required.