Author Topic: Trans to Rear Coupler Play  (Read 13760 times)

dreracecar

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Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play
« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2017, 08:04:51 AM »
Rear trans mount is only required for a door car (or a car with suspension) where the load on the trans is not just radial. As the suspension moves and the angle of the driveshaft changed the force puts varying load on the bellhousing

Offline Curly1

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Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play
« Reply #16 on: March 27, 2017, 09:53:48 AM »
On my four link Altered the transmission is just sitting on mount and not bolted down. My new rear engine dragster was same way.

Offline Van

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Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play
« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2017, 06:49:47 PM »
I run a trans mount and have no issues. I run a T 400, these are very heavy and with power, cracking the bell housing is very common. I run the JW bell attached by the pump bolts 5/16. With the heavy trans the threads can be pulled out of the case so a mount is needed. I run a bi-pod mount- stand, clamped to the X  the bolts are left finger tight at the trans.
 Van

Offline PSweeney

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Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play
« Reply #18 on: March 28, 2017, 02:47:25 AM »
if you have any binding on your coupler, it'll hurt something, either pinion support, tail bushing, or the coupler.  It needs to be aligned so it slides easy.  You might need to add turnbuckles to the rear of the trans for fine adjustment as it's literally half a turn on a 3/8unf thread from binding up.   If you have no trans mount, a 1/4in 6061 motorplate isn't ridged enough to hang the trans from unsupported and it won't slide free unless supported.

I disagree re the mid plate. If the motor is not bolted to the other side maybe the plate could flex enough to cause a problem, especially if the frame is excessively wide or the top and bottom rails don't have much vertical spread and are low relative to the crank centerline. I never run a trans mount in my cars and never have problems with binding. In the case of a car where the trans coupler plugs directly into the female unit on the rear end the alignment is more critical but there should not be any issues if the car is built correctly.
  I have seen issues when the mid plate is not supported correctly as in a car where the motor has been moved forward from the original location as in an old car that was not built with enough room for a transmission (right Steve? :) ) but in general a transmission mount is not a really good idea or necessary when you have front mounts and a mid plate. 

Roo

I always thought the same Roo until this car I have now.  It's a shortly glide with a straight male / female coupler (not the nice in situ version).  The motor was set using a line up bar and presumed aligned.  When we mocked up, whatever we did we couldn't get the coupler to slide easy.  We assumed alignment was off, so it was sent away again to have it re-done on the jig, new motor plate and chassis mounts reamed to the bolt shanks (with engine weight on mid plate ears).  We aligned the coupler on a scissor jack so it slid easy, then made the front motor plates with saddle mounts, using transfer punches and again reaming all holes to size to take out any slop.  This was closer but again it bound up.  Talking to another racer with the same set up who had the same issue, we made two turnbuckles mounted off the trans rear cover triangulated down to two brackets on the chassis.  We found the range of adjustment to be within half a turn on the bars and just taking up the trans weight slightly was the difference between it binding and sliding freely. 

A mount may not be needed for all cars but this was the only way we could obtain the alignment.  With a shortly glide close coupled we didn't have the driveshaft length to take up any angular mis-alignment.  With a full length glide and a driveshaft, I wouldn't expect to use a mount either.  I should add both couplers were brand new and with used / worn couplers I imagine this might not have been so much of an issue. 

Heres a pic, you can just see the rod end on the rear cover

« Last Edit: March 28, 2017, 02:53:10 AM by PSweeney »

Offline rooman

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Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play
« Reply #19 on: March 28, 2017, 04:28:27 AM »
The turnbuckle deal that you used is a great idea as it does not tie the trans rigidly to the frame while still supporting it. The thing that I see problems with is a solid mount that bolts the trans to the frame rigidly. In the door car field a lot of chassis kit manufacturers supply a bracket that bolts directly to the trans with no cushion. I try not to do full bodied cars anymore but in the past I have used a factory style cush mount to support the back of the transmission.
   I reworked an altered a while back where the chassis torqued up off the line and tore the rear trans mount tabs off the crossmember. The car had quite a few other issues--motor mounts out in the middle of space, well away from the uprights and only a half mid plate that allowed the frame to "diamond" under torque but in this case the owner was lucky that the crappy weld failed before the transmission housing.

Roo
Yeah, I am from the south--any further south and I would have been a bloody penguin.

Offline PSweeney

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Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play
« Reply #20 on: March 29, 2017, 02:05:11 PM »
It worked well for us, but it took some figuring. We remounted the whole deal three times before we settled on this. I did speak to another guy with a similar issue and he used saddles and a heavy zip tie which allowed some compliance. 

I think it's really the door car guys who suffer most  in this regard. Wider rear track, more torque reaction and a solid mounted trans just becomes a stressed member.  Use a stock glide with a thin bellhousing and they start cracking bellhousing.  Then they hack them off for a Ultrabell, problem masked.

Offline Curly1

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Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2017, 09:38:06 AM »
I would say that if you are having problems and need more than normal clearances you may need stronger engine limiters.