Some basic simple questions

[fuel749]

Wow big air one other thing I see watching your video tighten those shoulder belts more it looks like you can move around quite a bit!

Note taken, thanks Paul!

No problem that is one of my things I notice a friend of mine crashed with his belts a loose and it beat him up pretty good

Loose belts are a bigger problem than most people think. Snug isn't good enough.

[rooman]

Wow big air one other thing I see watching your video tighten those shoulder belts more it looks like you can move around quite a bit!

Note taken, thanks Paul!

No problem that is one of my things I notice a friend of mine crashed with his belts a loose and it beat him up pretty good

Loose belts are a bigger problem than most people think. Snug isn't good enough.

Yep,
      ask the guy who crashed his T/D at Brainerd in 2015.

   

   http://markjrebilas.com/blog/top-dragsters-take-twin-tumbles-at-nhra-brainerd/

Check Mark's photos of Kritzky once he got into the wall. Typical of a lot of e.t. racers he had his belts loose so that he could look over his shoulder and to top that he also had a wide shoulder hoop for the same reason. I see a lot of those sort of cars with 24" wide shoulder hoops and that is just plain stupid unless you are the Jolly Green Giant. I am currently building an altered for a 6' 5" / 300 lb customer and the shoulder hoop is 20" inside. He is a tight fit but if anything ever happens that is a good thing as he has no chance of rattling around like Kritzky who suffered quite extensive injuries in what should have been a "walk away" incident.

Roo

[fuel749]

Wow big air one other thing I see watching your video tighten those shoulder belts more it looks like you can move around quite a bit!

Note taken, thanks Paul!

No problem that is one of my things I notice a friend of mine crashed with his belts a loose and it beat him up pretty good

Loose belts are a bigger problem than most people think. Snug isn't good enough.

Yep,
      ask the guy who crashed his T/D at Brainerd in 2015.

   

   http://markjrebilas.com/blog/top-dragsters-take-twin-tumbles-at-nhra-brainerd/

Check Mark's photos of Kritzky once he got into the wall. Typical of a lot of e.t. racers he had his belts loose so that he could look over his shoulder and to top that he also had a wide shoulder hoop for the same reason. I see a lot of those sort of cars with 24" wide shoulder hoops and that is just plain stupid unless you are the Jolly Green Giant. I am currently building an altered for a 6' 5" / 300 lb customer and the shoulder hoop is 20" inside. He is a tight fit but if anything ever happens that is a good thing as he has no chance of rattling around like Kritzky who suffered quite extensive injuries in what should have been a "walk away" incident.

Roo

Sportsman racers seem to think that they're much safer since they don't go that fast. What they don't consider is that is a tumbling crash being inside that drivers compartment loosely is just about like throwing an egg in a blender..it'll scramble you up quick. Most of my stuff is in the neighborhood of 21" but I recommend poured or bead seats for everybody.

[dreracecar]

All the more reason to have somebody belt you in, there is no way a driver in one of these cars pull the belts tight enough sitting in them unless they are equipt with ty-down ratchets.

[Curly1]

I always tighten my belts real tight and my arm restraints fairly tight but where I can still easily reach everything.  My seat is fairly tight so I will not slap around inside. I do not plan on ever crashing but if I do I want to walk away.

What concerns me and should concern all open wheel front engine drivers is fire. Now it does not happen often but could get real bad very quick.

[noslin]

t I recommend poured or bead seats for everybody.

can you please elaborate on the 'bead' seat? 

ty
dean

[George]

t I recommend poured or bead seats for everybody.

can you please elaborate on the 'bead' seat? 

ty
dean Here is some info on bead seat kits. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4525

[rooman]

t I recommend poured or bead seats for everybody.

can you please elaborate on the 'bead' seat? 

ty
dean

The poured/bead seat deal is a good idea especially if the driver does not fit tight up against the seat. I have a molded carbon fiber seat base that I use in my builds and it is shaped so that it places the driver's butt back far enough that the upright portion of the seat is against his back from the shoulders on down. That is one of my beefs with the Cen-Pen cars. In them the driver usually has to slide his arse so far forward to get his legs over the rear end that his back is unsupported from the shoulder blades to his tail bone. Also if the car is the same width at the bottom as at the shoulder hoop you need something to locate the driver laterally--I don't know too many people whose butt is as wide as their shoulders (although I have seen some Walmartians that are built that way )

Roo

[fuel749]

t I recommend poured or bead seats for everybody.

can you please elaborate on the 'bead' seat? 

ty
dean

Look up the one that George links to, they've got a video that shows how to make/install one that should give you an idea what they're all about. You might think you're well supported in your seat until you do a poured seat and see how it supports every crack and crevice between you and the seat. The price is reasonable enough now that there's no reason not to have one....except that a lot of people tend to skimp on safety.

[dusterdave173]

I have a Cenpen and it was awful until I poured a bead bottom--it is fine now
You only need the "small" bead kit--this gives you enough to make two attempts  I was pretty happy with my first try so was able to sell remaining half to recoup some of the $$  it made all the difference in the world--doing it is messy and not guaranteed--it is a big PIA   You can go to circle track shops that make seats and they can do it for you--Here in NC we have several seat makers for Nascar that will do it --overall expect to make a mess first time and a usable one on second try--it takes a lot longer to "cure" than they estimate but you can get out of the car within 45 minutes or so     Just make a seat cushion type bottom don't try and make a Formula One full body deal
You use wifes best bread knife to trim it up when done and I covered mine with the dull black racers tape ( the Real stuff)  coving with Nomex is almost impossible for home done work  so save your $$ on that part  the shape is so odd that no way you can make it look good if not a pro upholstery guy IMO
when it is all just starting you have to waddle down on it like a setting hen on her nest and just keep on mashing down--it is not as easy as just sitting down by any means  You must have a helper  a vacuum pump is really best though we used a shop vac with a piece of small rubber tubing duct taped into hose end
You need help

[fuel749]

I have a Cenpen and it was awful until I poured a bead bottom--it is fine now
You only need the "small" bead kit--this gives you enough to make two attempts  I was pretty happy with my first try so was able to sell remaining half to recoup some of the $$  it made all the difference in the world--doing it is messy and not guaranteed--it is a big PIA   You can go to circle track shops that make seats and they can do it for you--Here in NC we have several seat makers for Nascar that will do it --overall expect to make a mess first time and a usable one on second try--it takes a lot longer to "cure" than they estimate but you can get out of the car within 45 minutes or so     Just make a seat cushion type bottom don't try and make a Formula One full body deal
You use wifes best bread knife to trim it up when done and I covered mine with the dull black racers tape ( the Real stuff)  coving with Nomex is almost impossible for home done work  so save your $$ on that part  the shape is so odd that no way you can make it look good if not a pro upholstery guy IMO
when it is all just starting you have to waddle down on it like a setting hen on her nest and just keep on mashing down--it is not as easy as just sitting down by any means  You must have a helper  a vacuum pump is really best though we used a shop vac with a piece of small rubber tubing duct taped into hose end
You need help

The first time or two are a learning experience for sure. And you will need help. I usually do the whole seat and I've found it much easier if you spread the stuff around in the bag and pull a vacuum on it first like they do in the video.

[dreracecar]

It takes about 8 hrs to do it over two days. Their are other 2-part foam kits that take less time but are expensive and working time before it sets is rather quick

[dreracecar]

I have a Cenpen and it was awful until I poured a bead bottom--it is fine now
You only need the "small" bead kit--this gives you enough to make two attempts  I was pretty happy with my first try so was able to sell remaining half to recoup some of the $$  it made all the difference in the world--doing it is messy and not guaranteed--it is a big PIA   You can go to circle track shops that make seats and they can do it for you--Here in NC we have several seat makers for Nascar that will do it --overall expect to make a mess first time and a usable one on second try--it takes a lot longer to "cure" than they estimate but you can get out of the car within 45 minutes or so     Just make a seat cushion type bottom don't try and make a Formula One full body deal
You use wifes best bread knife to trim it up when done and I covered mine with the dull black racers tape ( the Real stuff)  coving with Nomex is almost impossible for home done work  so save your $$ on that part  the shape is so odd that no way you can make it look good if not a pro upholstery guy IMO
when it is all just starting you have to waddle down on it like a setting hen on her nest and just keep on mashing down--it is not as easy as just sitting down by any means  You must have a helper  a vacuum pump is really best though we used a shop vac with a piece of small rubber tubing duct taped into hose end
You need help

 The GARVIN motorsports kit (386-788-8963) comes with everything needed, except the shop vac and labor. and highly recommend it. The covering sent with the kit is a knitted Carbon X material and easily conforms to the foam with the spray glue provided

[noslin]

thanks all, ill get one.  i was wanting to do this in my door car as in the kirkey seat your kind of swimming in there.  also, have seen some bad wrecks while watching pdra and other door car races via the net and the announcers and racers say its an important part of the safety program for the support it provides in an accident.

ill get one in the FED, was just want to get the fed done first and running which hopefully will be by sept. i have a carbon seat, not sure manuf though.
dean

[JrFuel Hayden]

We ALWAYS have a crew member hook-up and tighten the belts, we don't want our driver hurt !

Jon