Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
Where to Start
swilling:
Supercat -
Thank you! , i see what you're saying. the little i could find seemed like everyone avoided original chassis at all costs. Good to know you are able to keep it in the game with some upgrades!
would be a 4.25 stroke cast crank that would put me at 461. i have a few spare poncho blocks tucked away. I could run this crank in a 400 with the smaller mains than a 455 and should be more than enough for me to get a feel and understanding of what im doing. I even have a stock stroke 400 i could probably throw at it first time around. I like the thought of creeping up in CI and compression, and just seeing how things would improve. I'll probably say it again here im sure but i just love to geek out on numbers and theorizing.
Wow so cool to see a Buick! i already love the FED guys just because theres always a nice collective of the more odball engines, and of course lots of BOP stuff. Very cool!
Thanks!
Dreracecar -
Thanks! im starting to feel confident with my Tig skills that i can get a nice fitment and weld on some CM tubing But i do understand the merits of a Jig - i guess my mind was thinking that most of the old timers built theirs on a garage floor and were running a lot faster than id probably ever go. Forgive my ignorance, i guess the whole building from a kit mindset gave me the assumption i would learn a real lot along the way and have an even better understanding of measurements and geometry and why things work and why things dont.
Thank you! im ordering the book today! interesting between 2.4 and 2.6 being so simple - but man i think id need a change of pants if i ever ran 7.50s ;D
Good tip on the sticker. Thank you!
Nostalgic371 -
The time thing is certainly not a problem, i spent 6 months (weekends only due to my job) scratch building headers for my GTO, i spent more money and time of course than buying a 450 dollar set that would do fine. But for me, the fun comes from time spent in the garage, listening to music hanging with my dog and just turning a wrench or cutting some tubing. for me the journey of the build is certainly more rewarding than the finished product. I'm really thinking talking to a shop is a great idea at this point. Thank you!
Masracingtd1167 -
Thanks, another good point, as obviously all you guys here "Get" what im trying to do.
So - thank you all again - a huge help already. Its hard to find info or help about this stuff. I'm 35 years old, and absolutely zero of my friends are interested in cars or engine building, and its really hard to find like minded people who i could bounce ideas and learn from.
I did stumble across these guys and liked the idea that everything is already tacked on a Jig - would this be an adviseable route? http://www.slingshotdragsters.com/kits.html
That said, would anyone know of a Chassis builder in Nor Cal? i like the idea of getting something maybe quite bare but still to my size (i'm 6'1 190). I am located in Sonoma county. Sears Point is my local track. I think finding someone close by i could chat with, who also "gets it" would be great. Again, for me personally, its gotta be cool. I know i could already buy one of the many local rear engine dragsters complete ready to race off Craigslist and save time and money. But thats not for me, even if i never ran as fast as anything i could buy. Its just gotta cool, a little more period correct and just fun to create. These things were absolute pieces of Art as far as im concerned.
Lastly i know its probably a much larger question than can be answered in a few sentances. But as far as wheelbase. Where do i start, where do i go. Obviously, the shorter the gnarlier the thing must be when running quick. But again i know nothing about this stuff, is there a standard length that most of you guys run, or does it depend on power and what you're trying to achieve, wheres a good starting point for someone who knows nothing about this, and never driven one? Apologies again this is probably a horrible question to expect a simple answer for. But im just trying to start somewhere.
Thank you all again.
Cheers
Sam!
Thank you all again, i can't say how excited i am just to hear from you guys. Appreciate it all
Supercat:
Sam I would go around 180" to 200" as for stability.
I have driven 170mph 94" wheel base cars and had my hands full.
The first Fed I drove was mine at 200" and 145mph loved it next Fed was a top fuel 200"-225" that Roo built for Dan Horan Sr. .
2nd 1/8th mile pass in licensing was a 198mph run.
I had found my calling for what I wanted......
Bruce could help you out as there are also many like him that live on the west coast.
I would give him or Roo a call to add to your education.
As they say where I live. "They are good people".
Good luck.
dreracecar:
2.4 and 2.6 cost the same to SFI tag every 3 years
My car runs 7.0Pro, its 193" wheelbase because if I wanted it longer I would have to buy 4 lengths of 1 1/4 for the front rails instead of 2 that I cut in half and where they came together--- that determind my wheelbase. ANY wheelbase car will handle great if it is built right, if it does not, then its junk.
The general rule is the shorter the wheelbase, the wider the front axle. Short WB and a narrow front axle is when handling becomes an issue, I also build 100" nostalgia fuel altereds, that handle and go straight, but the front axle is wide.
Back in the day cars were built on the floor with nothing but chaulk lines and 2 x 4's but things have changed since then. One could easily build a frame in a week because there was not that much tubing involved, With having to build with specs and all the tubing now required, it takes a week just to weld it. besides Im too old to be crawling on the floor.
Kit cars are great for the companys that provide them. They sell them to those people trying to save money by not having a shop do it, all is great and the entusiatm is high till they realize the amount of work it takes and the shortfalls of the kit. Not by any means am I putting you in this catogory, I dont know you or your qualifcations, Im going by what shows up at the swapmeet or at my front door asking for help. Kits provide the exact amount tubing for the build, some people need double the tubing to cover mistakes. Even with doing this for over 20+ years, I have a box of mistakes under the bench that I use for shorter parts
dreracecar:
Lots of discussion on that "slingshotdragster" chassis on this board--- most of it not very good
JrFuel Hayden:
Sam, I just got called from one of my JrFuel customers that wants to sell everything he has, including a chassis that looks like it would fit you, with the motor location of 42" from the rear axle to the back of the motor, that he took anything bolted on to build a new chassis with the motor out 52" . So what's missing is the seat, rear-end housing, the bolt on "A" arms, spindles, steering box, and front nose body, wheels altho he has 3 sets of rear wheels and 2 sets of wire spoke wheels. I'm sure he'll sell it inexpensive, the good news for you is he is in NAPA Calif, with-in eye shot of the Sonoma Dragstrip.
So most of your welding would be done, yes the chassis cert has expiered, but can be certed, it has run in the 6's.
Call me if you are interested,
Jon 805-444-4489, cell
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