Author Topic: cooling question  (Read 7426 times)

Offline crider

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cooling question
« on: May 07, 2017, 08:30:24 AM »
I have a question for those that are running a flat mounted radiator, I have a bc in my dragster with the radiator laid flat in the chassis. It currently has a csr pump on the motor with -16 lines. It will circulate water fine after bleeding the air out, but if the system gets the slightest bit low, like as little as a pint low the pump quits moving water. What are you guys that run a radiator using for a water pump?

Offline Oldschool

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2017, 03:29:09 PM »
Mine was flat and never had a problem. I did check the water here and there to make sure it was full, but worked great. I am running alky now,so no longer need.
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Offline jspell

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2017, 05:46:29 PM »
I use a CSR pump with #16 lines to a flat mounted radiator and the system never loses water...maybe a "shot glass" worth after 15 passes...

Offline Mrs Esterhouse

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2017, 09:58:22 AM »
Are you sure your not still just fighting air in the system, and being a little low is because some air worked out?  We fill ours from the lowest point (radiator) with a hose connected to the petcock and pull a vacuum from the highest point (radiator cap). Good luck.

dreracecar

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2017, 11:44:50 AM »
I ran bleeds at the back of the manifold because of motor angle, gave them a quick pop while the motor was running to purge any trapped air in back

Offline crider

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2017, 03:41:06 PM »
Well I'm not 100% certain all the air is out, but I'm pretty sure. I have ran the pump with the engine off for over half an hour, I would think that would have worked all the air out. It circulates great as long as it is full to the very top. Filler cap on the intake. it will push about a half pint out of it into the overflow jug once it get's up to temp. Using a 15lb cap. would a higher  pressure rad cap help maybe? New engine is going to be on methanol if the machinest ever gets my block ready for me, hopefully that wil cure all my cooling issues, but I'd like to be able to have a little bit of fun with this old boat anchor until then

Offline fuel749

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2017, 05:41:08 AM »
Are you driving to the staging lanes and driving back?

Offline MikenMpls

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2017, 06:19:48 AM »
Similar to a road vehicles cooling system the only way to keep air out (once purged) is to make sure that there is a "recovery tank" with fluid in it. This way when the engine cools and the fluid contracts it will pull fluid from the recovery tank into the engine and not air from somewhere else. Otherwise you will have to purge every expansion/cooling cycle.

Offline crider

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2017, 08:19:56 AM »
Yes, drive to lanes and return

Offline Scott Krieger

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #9 on: May 14, 2017, 08:25:30 AM »
Crider,
Yes on the cap.
We tried a 12lb cap (Seemed stouter) from a 16lb cap after changing out radiator lines. Puck tank started filling up after every pass. After that race grabbed the 16lb cap out of the trash can put it back on, along with a zip tie. Problem solved.

I think that Meziere safety cap is the way to go. I put off getting one when I first seen one a couple months ago. But will be ordering one today now that you got Me thinking about it. Cheap safety in the long run for $100 in this department and last forever. 

Thank's
Enjoy

Offline Mrs Esterhouse

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2017, 10:41:24 AM »
In my opinion a recovery style puke tank is a must. And don't forget there is a difference in caps, not all are meant for a recovery system.  We had a hard time with our low, flat mounted radiator at first. I could fill and run the pump forever and it would still get hot and puke.  Pulling a vacuum on the system has been the trick for us.

Offline THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Re: cooling question
« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2017, 07:57:45 AM »
Well, I run a Super Pro altered and I will tell you what works for me:
First, as others have mentioned, I installed a Schrader valve to bleed the air at the back of the head (My highest point in the system).

I also installed a Schrader valve in my Sirocco-style lay-down radiator. It is mounted on the body side panel via a 1/8" tubing, just in front of my front axle.
I also drilled a 1/8" bleed in my radiator cap to essentially run the system at "zero pressure". The overflow empties into a puke tank.

I drive to the lanes, start the car in staging to bring the temp up and pull to the ready line around 155 - 160 degrees. Make my run, usually around 180 degrees in the shutdown area, drive back the return road, pick up my e.t. slip, and return to my pit space. It usually stays under 200 degrees and puts about 1/2 cup of water into the puke tank. My fill neck is about six inches tall and I leave the water level at the bottom of it.

Here is a vid showing the bleed just below the tach on the head and the fill neck with radiator cap:



and another typical run:



The temp gage is to the right of the tach. BTW, 550 HP six on gasoline.