Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
What to look for when buying a used chassis...
George:
We bought a FED in 2009 with an expired NHRA chassis tag. It was expired by several years. I called the NHRA office and was told expired chassis certifications were not on file. After the chassis failed an inspection I doubt the tag was legal and if it had been inspected at the time the tag was installed it got a "special deal". So, my take on a used chassis is: make it a current cert or know the SFI spec for the build. As for cracks and any other flaws it's buyer beware. I have only a few cars to draw real knowledge from. A point to consider is the transporting of the car/chassis can be a serious concern as far as chassis fatigue. It would be a good question to ask a seller as to how the car was secured and supported in transport. The used car is the best deal out there if you know what you are looking at. George
1000hpJohn:
Paul, aafa, John & George,
That's what I was looking for as far as info. I'm not a genius, but I kinda know what metal does and doesn't do under certain conditions and it is really neat to see it move and the reasons why.
You guys more less hit the nail on the head. It's the locations of (where to look) for a possible issue. If or when I buy a dragster, I will be anal about certain things, the chassis will most likely be stripped so I can inspect every joint and where everything meets. I also agree on replace the wearable items such as heim joints, hardware and so in. Working on heavy trucks off and on during my career in the auto industry has taught me a few things and many are a direct crossover to my race vehicle, my trailer and my dualie.
Is there such shops that can inspect a chassis once stripped for issues or is that an (option) type job for a chassis shop or other shop that would charge extra for just that?
I also agree with you all about finding out who built the chassis, and the names I cannot even afford to call and talk to such people as N&P, Uyherra(sp), and some of the other top name builders as they are who I would go to for a scratch built to me chassis and a small loan would make that happen. So I am one of those guys who needs to know as much as possible before I dive head first into the digger world and you all have helped soo much so far and I want to thankyou all again...one of the better sites I've been to with less arragonce ...Great job guys keeping it real, and real cool 8)(insert thumbs up emoticon here) lol.
John
olddiggersrule:
Thanks for starting the thread John. I learned a ton with you, I am in a similar situation as I have been shopping for my first FED. Unbelievably knowledgeable and patient posts from all of the contributors.
The biggest thing I am running up against is the majority of the cars I've looked at just weren't built for an NFL linebacker sized driver. The most important thing I have learned is that there is reasons for all of the bargain cars available and I will most likely have to really reconsider my budget.
We are still kicking our selves for missing out on few cars that were within a days drive but at same time very thankful now that we didn't hastily buy a few others that we would have most certainly regretted.
dreracecar:
My point being that even if the NHRA/SFI tag is expired, there has not been many updates to the specs that should be a big concern on a once stickerd chassis, helmet bars, kidney uprites, front roll bar uprite support (those chassis without the inner sleeve). Looking at a never been tagged old chassis runs the risk of too small of dia or too thin a wall of the major componants that would either be too expensive to fix or just require a new chassis to start with, The sticker just saves you from wasting your time--- ask the seller if the chassis has ever been inspected and tagged and what the spec and date is. From that point if it was stickerd, then see if you even fit in the drivers seat. bring or borrow a 15 or 20 suit and helmet and sit in it, if you do not fit or your are cramped up, pass its over, if you cant get your helmet inside the cage enough to pass track tech, you should pass also, now you can always put a new cage on the chassis, but here at my shop you can be looking close to $750 or if the cage needs to be over 18" tall then the shoulder hoop might have to be changed to .065 (most are .058).
In a perfect world, the seller would be more than pleased to strip the entire car down to bare frame so that you can inspect each and every weld-- not happening and one must assume that there may be some spots that need touch-up. patches, splices, clamshells are indications of problems. If the chassis is build like an oil derrick, then inspection of the up-rites towards the front will often show signs of repair, because of this style/design, more traditional (all rails converging to the front torsion) have much less tendency of cracking.
Chassis inspectors only check for placement, diameter, wall thickness---period!!! Not the welds unless the condition is so bad (bubble gum, bird shite, wire feed on moly) that he will fail the tag. To ask the inspector to look at all the welds is beond his capacity as an inspector, He has no way of determining if the weld is sound or not and you are not going to strip and blast the chassis for him either if he is doing the inspection at the track/event. 2 months after he inspects the welds and one happens to crack/break , do you still blame him??? inspection of the welds is your maintenence/job.
I built my chassis 20 years ago, and have never had to weld any of the basic structure, ohh and ocasional motor mount tab and the updated helmet bars along with another firebottle mount, but never broke a frame rail or up-rite, but have done a few other peoples chassis
cad500justin:
Hey guys, I'm a bit of a lurker here. I'll post an intro when I get a min. But I'd like to chime in on my chassis experience.
My car was originally built in '71, it's been front halved and back halved leaving only about 2' in the middle of ugly work.
Chassis cracks are not something to be too concerned with when buying a used fed as long as you're buying a good car. Hopefully you have a mill, lathe, and tig welder. I couldn't imagine racing without them.
The problems I've encountered with an older car are:
The shoulder hoop is really narrow (I barely fit) making it harder to sell should I ever want to.
The motor is really far back making the car want to wheel stand and more difficult to remove the tranny. (Mine is 30-1/2" out, I have a shorty glide, with a shorty coupler, right into the rear end.
Most older cars were built with Chrysler 8-3/4" rear ends. This is good and bad, they're lighter and use less hp than ford, but there's less gear ratios available. A bit of a problem for me with a low redline rpm.
If the frame rails were used for breathers, alcohol and moisture may have rotted the inside of the frame in places.
It would be too much work to make this car cert to 6.0 so I am limited to 7.50.
Old cars just aren't as well thought out, so things don't always make sense.
Although they sometimes look cooler.
Spin the front tires and look for flat spots in the rims. New hoops ain't cheap.
My advice is to buy the most modern lightweight car you can afford. Parts will be easier to get. It takes less hp to go fast in a light car. Less hp is less maint and less money. Maybe look for a guy that runs jr fuel and is upgrading to an on-kill N&P chassis.
If you don't have a good trailer, in the long run, it will probably be cheaper to buy someone's whole operation with spares, etc. all those little things add up to time and money.
See if it comes with a chassis stand.
Fwiw, if you get an altered, you can also run in a,b,c gas if they don't have the NE classes. And altereds fit in standard garages and trailers. But dragsters are sexier ;)
When you do finally get a chassis. Take it all the way apart-every single nut and bolt. Literally. You want everything that is wrong with that car to be your fault. Not the last guy's. Lord knows I found a few things that might have literally killed me.
I stripped the paint off the chassis too so I could look everything over carefully.
Good luck in your adventures.
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