Cost to build a new fed????

[noslin]

3-4 yrs ago i started to build a FED theres even some pics in the build section, between working on customers stuff and other things life throw at you it never got finished..i actually cut the frame up becuase there where things i could have done better.... and i took the parts i had and had david beard put together a chassis for me last year, unless you have the time building one is great, years ago i also purchased a sw kit that i got halfway together and then sold becuase of lack of time. the kit was nice , but i personally think if you have a local source for tubing you could maybe save some coin by buying the bends you need from a shop that does bending to fit your needs and do it that way..... there prints are top notch and supplemented with the SFI prints you will have no problem building a spec chassis...... i am very happy with the chassis i got from david top notch fab work at a reasonable price....as others mentioned there is alot that goes into it and it really does not cost that much to just have a frame built

here is mine as it sits with wheels etc, no 3rd member, floater rear, there is about 13k into it....225" wheelbase.
 

dig your car and love the 'V' series wheels, i was wanting to do polished alum 'V' in front but opted for traditional spokes to save little money.  having floater setup, those wheels, etc and 13k is smokin deal. 

dean

[1000hpJohn]

Oh man that is too cool, THANKS  a bunch Glofria 

[1000hpJohn]

So, does $13-1500. Seem about the cost for most of the steering components minus that long steering linkage bar running down the side???  Didn't price out a butterfly wheel yet.  Also, are you guys all crunched in the cage to where you have to exhale to drive down range? Lol some drivers look real uncomfortable to me, and others don't....I myself would like a little distance from me to the wheel and have my arms extended a little.  Is that a normal question or do I just bite the bullet like the rest of you all??? Lol

How do I know what type of axle to get?  Doesn't need to look period correct, close but if I bracket race it, repeatability is key there.... what about an A-arm package??? Just asking....... . I can see this escalating right out of control ....

I looked at the Dragster Supply site and really like there welded kit they offer, but of course many things need to be added.  I think you guys are all correct, $10k is dream fed, a real one is closer to $15-20k...
Once again reality sets in.   I will see how this season goes, never know, just might win a big dollar bracket race or a bunch of small ones for payouts!!!!

John

[noslin]

with my car as follows is about 15k.   chassis w/ front spindles, all steering linkage, steering box, butter fly wheel, parachute (2) mounts and handles, motor mount/plate, brake handle, m/c, pedal, N&P shifter, seat, shorty body, front wing, fuel tank, milter bros housing, strange axles, brake, third member, drive shaft and couplers.

i have new front wheels, picked up some used rears that are new but never used, purchased trans and am at 20-21k.  need to get chutes, fire bottles, belts, and misc things so figure ill be about 24-25k into it rolling.. less electronics and motor/fuel system. 

as was eluded too earlier, i could of saved and purchased a used car but i would not of fit as im 6'4" and shoulders are about 21" wide.   i have seen a lot of cars out there with narrower (19") shoulder widths.   if i would of purchased a car as roller, how much money would it of cost me to have it modified assuming the shoulder width was acceptable.  further, the chassis im getting is built to 2.2C standards.  in the end, the base money spent for the chassis as comparable roller price isnt that much more and it is built to ME and is new.  i could of saved prob 1,500.00 by buying one chute, smaller axles, third member, etc... also, when i go to sell it, the car will have a higher resale value even though it doesn't matter what car you build, youll never get out of it what you have in it... thats just part of the game.

dean

[rooman]

Here see if this will help. Build your own nostalgia dragster from this drawing by Roger Lee of Jim Brissette's BB/FD that went 7.20 @ 224 MPH. The car was originally built in 1964.

This drawing was on the wall at Don "The Wavemaker" Prieto's shop in Torrance, CA. I took this photo a couple of years ago while there for the United States Food & Gas Nationals

Not a real good idea to copy that design. Apart from the fact that it will not come even close to passing tech the motor is only 20" out meaning that there is no place for any sort of transmission and also that a LOT of ballast would be required up front to stop it from wheelstanding even with a slider clutch. The design is from the mid 60's, prior to grippy tires and sticky start lines. Cool as a cackle car but that is about all.

Roo

[rooman]

" Also, are you guys all crunched in the cage to where you have to exhale to drive down range? Lol some drivers look real uncomfortable to me, and others don't....I myself would like a little distance from me to the wheel and have my arms extended a little.  Is that a normal question or do I just bite the bullet like the rest of you all??? Lol"

John,
        the drivers who look uncomfortable are usually in a car that was built for someone else (usually of a different size). One thing to watch for is the shoulder hoop configuration. As seen in the blueprint posted by Gino, the early cars had a single bend shoulder hoop and that tends to push the driver's shoulders forward as the belts pull him back into the seat. That can make it hard to breathe as evidenced by one of my customers who has a car that was built from an old ) mid 60's) Speed Improvements kit.  Don Long figured the problem out fairly early and started making the shoulder hoop with a flat between 6" radius bends rather than the constant (approx 9-10") radius deal.
 I build all of my cars to suit the driver (and engine/drive line combo) and put the wheel, pedals etc in the position that they are most comfortable with. I also generally make some recommendations as what feels right in the shop sometimes does not work on the track.

Roo

[wideopen231]

One thing to remember about fitting car and driver. Drivers equipment.Suit and helmet have huge effect of how car feels.You need to be comfortable when in car.Its not a recliner, but it should not be torture test either. Especailly true if you're bracket racing it.As I am sure you know today's brackets require .00x light and about the same on dial in. Can not kill tree if your feeling cramped and not 100% focused on light.

If you are not comfortable with your own building skills a call to chassis builder like Rooman,Bruce or Neil and Parks might not be bad investment. IO know Parks will help you a ton of phone and Rooman can advise you here as Bruce can also.

Cheaper to right first time!

[dreracecar]

building a car quickly is expensive and much cheaper over time, but time has a way of interfering progress.
 If you budget high  $20/$25 and come out way under cost you win and go racing with money left over, If you budget low $10/$15 and run out of money you lose, not only being able to race, but without being able to fund the rest of the build and are forced to sell to recoupe investment, your return is only .30 on the $$'s spent.
 Look at used cars for sale, have the sellers send plenty of body off pictures including the SFI cert tag on the chassis(does not have to be current cert) or take plenty of pics yourself and post them here, Both Roo and Myself will take the time to veiw them to give you an honest accesment before you buy or will tell you to walk away

[buickfed]

I bought a used '68 from cali 6yrs ago. it is 192". the guy pulled the engine and left everything else in the sale. all I had to do was make a new engine plate because I run a small block buick in it and go racing. it cost me $4900 w/shipping from cali to ct. by springtime we were racing. getting a life history of it is another story. for me, a used car was the best deal. don't regret it all. like others said, the older ones have a 19" cage. it was ok in the beginning, but my son needs to go on a diet.

[slingshot383]

That blueprint is the little brother to the '69 Woody Gilmore car that I had, 165" with a cut down coupler and a shorty Glide.  Yep, engine way back, fuel and battery way out front, no need for big heavy slicks, let go of the tranny brake and HOLD ON!  If you build or buy a car, best bet is to know what you will fit in.  Put on your firesuit and helmet, sit against the wall, holding a 10" frying pan in front of you at shoulder level.  Have somebody measure from the floor to 2" above the helmet, the width of your shoulders, from the wall to the frying pan, from the center of your arm at the shoulder to the floor.  Those are the numbers you need to know if you will fit in the car or not.

[slingshot383]

If you like a sheet metal rearend, Neil and Parks has one that is very compact and light, and you can get it pre-welded or weld it yourself, comes it chrome-moly or titanium for the weight concerned folks.

[1000hpJohn]

" Also, are you guys all crunched in the cage to where you have to exhale to drive down range? Lol some drivers look real uncomfortable to me, and others don't....I myself would like a little distance from me to the wheel and have my arms extended a little.  Is that a normal question or do I just bite the bullet like the rest of you all??? Lol"

John,
        the drivers who look uncomfortable are usually in a car that was built for someone else (usually of a different size). One thing to watch for is the shoulder hoop configuration. As seen in the blueprint posted by Gino, the early cars had a single bend shoulder hoop and that tends to push the driver's shoulders forward as the belts pull him back into the seat. That can make it hard to breathe as evidenced by one of my customers who has a car that was built from an old ) mid 60's) Speed Improvements kit.  Don Long figured the problem out fairly early and started making the shoulder hoop with a flat between 6" radius bends rather than the constant (approx 9-10") radius deal.
 I build all of my cars to suit the driver (and engine/drive line combo) and put the wheel, pedals etc in the position that they are most comfortable with. I also generally make some recommendations as what feels right in the shop sometimes does not work on the track.

Roo

Hi Mr. Roo,
   Now that is one  thing I wouldn't have known to even look for!!!! And now that picture becomes crystal clear on that part of the cage...thanks a bunch.  I'm approx. 21" wide at my shoulders, ex bodybuilder and getting back into it prior to and after my hand surgery for Carpel Tunnel release...so they will be growing again

Finding a good shop that works on these monsters and trust worthy are rare to find in one place around here in Detroit area.  Just got a lead on a shop a few hours from here and they build nostalgia diggers and f/c's so I will look into them in future.  Guy at work works on a nostalgia funny car (The Parts Peddler) and he even sold me parts at one time a few years back...so I am starting to find key people for this build idea.  Met this guy a week ago too!! Lol go figure...

[1000hpJohn]

building a car quickly is expensive and much cheaper over time, but time has a way of interfering progress.
 If you budget high  $20/$25 and come out way under cost you win and go racing with money left over, If you budget low $10/$15 and run out of money you lose, not only being able to race, but without being able to fund the rest of the build and are forced to sell to recoupe investment, your return is only .30 on the $$'s spent.
 Look at used cars for sale, have the sellers send plenty of body off pictures including the SFI cert tag on the chassis(does not have to be current cert) or take plenty of pics yourself and post them here, Both Roo and Myself will take the time to veiw them to give you an honest accesment before you buy or will tell you to walk away

Dre,
  Thanks for your info, and that is what kind grows on me is the life issues that we all deal with as we get older.    I hope to start this project and see it thru, but....
I appreciate the help on the used chassis search if I go that route.

I will need to find a small fortune to do this or hit the lotto and pay off both of my new cars!!!!  Need to see how this season plays out for my team, that'll will tell my future one way or another.
Thanks again for your support.

John

[1000hpJohn]

with my car as follows is about 15k.   chassis w/ front spindles, all steering linkage, steering box, butter fly wheel, parachute (2) mounts and handles, motor mount/plate, brake handle, m/c, pedal, N&P shifter, seat, shorty body, front wing, fuel tank, milter bros housing, strange axles, brake, third member, drive shaft and couplers.

i have new front wheels, picked up some used rears that are new but never used, purchased trans and am at 20-21k.  need to get chutes, fire bottles, belts, and misc things so figure ill be about 24-25k into it rolling.. less electronics and motor/fuel system. 

as was eluded too earlier, i could of saved and purchased a used car but i would not of fit as im 6'4" and shoulders are about 21" wide.   i have seen a lot of cars out there with narrower (19") shoulder widths.   if i would of purchased a car as roller, how much money would it of cost me to have it modified assuming the shoulder width was acceptable.  further, the chassis im getting is built to 2.2C standards.  in the end, the base money spent for the chassis as comparable roller price isnt that much more and it is built to ME and is new.  i could of saved prob 1,500.00 by buying one chute, smaller axles, third member, etc... also, when i go to sell it, the car will have a higher resale value even though it doesn't matter what car you build, youll never get out of it what you have in it... thats just part of the game.

dean

Dean,
   Thanks for all this info., just priceless to me(insert thumbs up here) lol
My wife and I are looking into having a house built, and if she gets what SHE wants so do I . This would produce a big garage to do this build.  Will get me some metal and make a long flat and straight table and level it off and go from there.  THAT would help me very much and I can have a friend of mine come over and do some welding for me... once I get the sfi info and prints from who ever I will get the chassis from I can go from there and start buying pipe.  I will most likely contact you all here before I build the upper cage for me fat bunn...I need to get this whole project right or I will loose interest as mentioned.  I have learned patience over the last 3 years let me tell ya.   I am aware of the ROI on this stuff, kind of stinks too but...is what it is.  As I look at diggers, I will be looking very hard at them.

Until then, I will start buying a few things here and there and ask Q's as I go down the road...
Thanks again for offering YOUR info.

John

[1000hpJohn]

If you like a sheet metal rearend, Neil and Parks has one that is very compact and light, and you can get it pre-welded or weld it yourself, comes it chrome-moly or titanium for the weight concerned folks.

I have all the parts to build my sheet metal rear axle, Rick Jones 9" fabbed hsg., strange alum. Pig with 4:30 gear set, rear housing support, bearing ends, axles, brake hats, studs and brake calipers.  I got the engine and trans as well.

Here is a question, what dictates the tail end of the trans length?  Power to weight, balance, distance out from axle c/l for proper transfer, length of the frame and or wheelbase?  Have seen some with mini u joints and some with couplers, so which is needed for a 1000+hp?  Either way there will be a shaft loop can between my legs.  Trans is a Reid case with liner and engine has a diaper already.     Need to check the sfi rules on my fire suit, as it is for a door car and not sure if it will transfer over or not.  Got shoes too.
I will measure my center housing area and toss the dimensions on here and maybe someone can tell me if it will be too wide to use.


I have all the main heavy parts that's for sure and I'm not really worried how much it weighs when completed, can always throw more power at it!!!
Next!!! Lol

John