Cost to build a new fed????

[1000hpJohn]

Hi all,
  One day in my future I think I want to try a fed and a could use a little help.  First off, after purchasing a chassis kit for x amount, what am I looking at to complete a build?   I race an 8 sec. Elcamino so I know what it takes to race a door car and build one, oh do I know !!! Lol. I would transfer my BBC and glide to the digger, and I also have a sheet metal 9" I can build with.  I can figure out tire/wheel pricing but how much can I expect to drop into one of these things?  Front chassis will be open, no tin except around cockpit area like many.  Looking for a ballpark price to build one.  I'm thinking maybe close to 10k??  Biggest cost will be welding labor I'm sure...

It's not that I don't want to buy one already built, but can't get rid of my Elky for enough to cover the build or to buy a complete roller!!! 

This is a preliminary question to something that just might happen sooner than later....
Thanks for any help.

John

[rooman]

John,
        a lot depends on what comes with your "kit" package.  Are you thinking of a tack welded chassis or a pile of bends and straight tubing. If you are capable of making a simple fixture to put it together something like the S & W kit ( www.swracecars.com/)   is a good deal as it has most of the stuff that is unique to a front motor car in the package. David at Dragster Supply  ( http://www.dragstersupply.com/Chassis_Kits.html) can also supply anything from a tubing kit to a welded chassis and I could do the same.
  I tend to recommend against using a fabricated (sheetmetal) housing in a front motor car as in general they are bulky. Remember that your legs are going over the housing and all of those hard corners can get uncomfortable. I use Strange's H 1110 housing for that reason. It has more beam strength than a regular 9" but a lot less bulk than the sheetmetal units especially those that are designed for a symmetrical  appearance and thus have excess material outboard of the center section on the right side.
  The only really complicated part of the body is the seat--the sides are basically flat sheet and the cowl can be bent around large diameter pipe or the old standby argon bottle. All of the tabs and minor components --brake and gas pedals, chute mounts etc are readily available from multiple sources. A custom built fuel tank is nice but I have seen plenty of cars running the spun "Moon" style ones sold by Speedway Motors.
 A good idea is to find someone running one locally and hang out with them at the races and in the shop and learn what you do and don't like.

Roo

[fuel749]

As usual, Roo is right on. If you want the satisfaction of completing your own car I recommend at the minimum you buy a welded chassis with rear end housing, motor plates and torsion bar or front axle. The reason I recommend this is that it gets you into a project with a much higher probability of getting finished. Very easy for a rookie builder to get discouraged on a scratch build. By the time you finish building out a welded chassis you'll still have a car that's distinctly yours.

     As far as cost goes, take your 10k number and start adding in axles, brakes, center section, master cylinder, coupler etc. and you'll have a good idea where you're at.

[1000hpJohn]

Awesome guys, thanks a ton for your input and knowledge.  Want to adopt a son? Lol
S&W was a kit I looked at too, ironic but as mentioned knowledgeable you are...
I figured I could start by buying one component at a time until I have whats needed to build one.  I have new axles, alum. Strange third member, brakes and hats I can use.   Need to change the gear set too unless a 4:30 ratio is useable??  So, looks like I will need steering components, gas pedal, headers, weight bar,  front and rear wheels and tires, fuel tank, braided hose, brake m/c , pedal, seat, drive coupler, coupler shield for MY piece of mind!   I will use my fuel system, MSD ignition, trans cooler, radiator with fan, wiring circuit board, shifter and cable, battery and all else electrical, parachute, cable and lever, belts.  Have a Reid trans case so I'm good there,  engine diaper.  That should get a good start on things . Then get some tin, paint, find a welder that does supreme welding and well, what else??  Lol...
Getting excited just typing all that stuff .

I'd say I am well in my way to building it for 10k, but then again!!!!! Lol maybe not.

John

[dusterdave173]

It is a long way to a finished car but the satisfaction of that first run is something you will remember forever--sounds like you can do it! I agree the best start is welded chassis with a minimum rear housing mounted along with motor plate, front axles and pieces
Be sure and ask here before buying anything as we have already done the research--
Welcome!!!!

[hotrod316]

the little stuff will be 1500.00 2000.00

it will add it up

things u should think about too
electric, gas, rods, making jigs etc.etc. on and on
150 to 200 just in bolts
but what do i know
steve m.
time is all we have, when it's gone its GONE

[grapro]

I built mine from a scratch kit from S and W race cars, i think it probably cost close to 15 than 10. Lots of things to consider your convertor wont work due to weight, all the little stuff that matters a lot and costs a lot.  I built mine and if I did it again I would buy one and modify it to what i want.

[wideopen231]

Not to argue cost others have  stated. I started with bunch of straqight tube(not enough).Built most everything,took too long. Upside to very drug out build is I found bunch of good deals.
1500.00 gear set=600.00
1100 wheels=550
600 frt wheels= 275 with spindles
600.00 bell housing = 150 FED.ORG member
 Just some examples

Last count I was at 8000.00 and ready to hit track will be another 1100 to 1200 ,650 of which is new slicks

Having motor sitting here before starting was huge as was having most of the equipment needed. Heck w/o motor being on hand I would probably not have started build,so actually it cost me money.LOL

[1000hpJohn]

Well, I hit three numbers on a lotto ticket!!! won $20. So that gets added in too lol.
You guys are correct, the little stuff will add up fast.  Front axle parts, rework the converter...
 Maybe I will just build a really fast go cart!!!!!! Lol

It's no wonder many guys have just backed out of continuing with racing!!!  I was looking at an altered too but again, my junk won't bring in .25 on the dollar right now...lots of stuff for sale out there too.
I gotta finish my Elky off so I can race again...been 4 years since I was in the seat.  Just about there...

Thanks again guys for your input and help, never had a friend that was as passionate about racing as I am.
Maybe I too should look into buying a good used fed.  Got some money coming but not enough to start another project.

John

[dusterdave173]

A Good car will cost you--the no good cars that are too narrow for anyone to fit in the cockpit are the "deals" you see
If you go that route I expect a turn key ready to load and race safely will be in the $15K range
These cars used are like everything else--you get what you pay for IF you do your homework--if you just jump and buy one you can get really screwed
I will say that after bracket racing for over 25 years the first run I ever made in my FED wiped all that out and as long as I have a race car it will be a FED Period! It is like your first time--every time

[hotrod316]

A Good car will cost you--the no good cars that are too narrow for anyone to fit in the cockpit are the "deals" you see
If you go that route I expect a turn key ready to load and race safely will be in the $15K range
These cars used are like everything else--you get what you pay for IF you do your homework--if you just jump and buy one you can get really screwed
I will say that after bracket racing for over 25 years the first run I ever made in my FED wiped all that out and as long as I have a race car it will be a FED Period! It is like your first time--every time

here is one of those no good cars

[wideopen231]

For me the build is over half the fun and theres nothing like winning in a car that you built. For me racing means racing something you built and seeing how much you can get out of it.

I would build my car even if it cost more than buying a new turn key. Cost is relative to how fast you want it to be.

[1000hpJohn]

I tell ya guys, you really know how to take the wind out of a guys sails!!!!!! Lol.  I do understand what your all saying and (IF) I had the cash to build one, my welding skills with a tig torch are lacking and I wouldn't even consider trying to build a digger....a 1/25 scale model maybe .  I will be doing some welding on my Elky soon, just small body panel stuff fire wall hole filling and such.   I'm going to practice more with some pieces of moly tube and see how it goes.  I can weld a stack of dimes with aluminum but who can't!!!!  Steel just seems to piss me off sometimes as the heat is either too high, low, tip is acting up, tungsten keeps sticking to metal . Always something...it's a new Miller Diversion 180 and works well, just not on long constant welding.  Little at a time and it works great....

I have a garage but things need to disappear so room could be made...

Again, thanks for all your input and wisdom.  Wish I knew all of you more and lived closer to see how you build diggers...

When the time is right, I will be coming back to take you all up on your info and wisdom again.  Until then, keep the wheels down and th goggles clean

John

[dusterdave173]

Well...I say I built my car but...I did hire a professional welder since my life may depend on weld quality--did not even consider buying a TIG--can't see good enough to do that kind of work LOL
Please keep in touch with this crowd--once the new season starts you will get much more interesting reading
Again..welcome!!

[1000hpJohn]

Here's a question for you all, should do a pole on this.
My main use would be bracket racing and maybe a nostalgia event or two.  I would run my 505" BBC and it makes just about 900hp and 780+torque.  So, big question is what length do I need???  185", 200, 225 longer, shorter??  I myself would look into a 225".  I like being stable, hence my choice of race car.  116" wheelbase and it works well but is heavy and runs big tire's.

Thoughts!!!!