Technical > Matt Shaff's Engine Shop
girdle vs 4 bolt caps on iron hemi block
noslin:
All replies are very welcomed. looking at the 'whale' to just get the FED running for end of this year and next year. i have aspirations to run 7.0 but whatever it runs it runs (ne1, ne2,...) we dont expect to go out and set the world on fire and obviously we all know there is a learning curve, we just want to get out there and have fun. nevertheless, ill use an aftermarket block on the next motor. for us the 'whale' is just way to get in the game a little without huge expense.
i think the initial plan was to get one. 331, 354, 392 (with 392 block being optimal for tall deck), make necessary upgrades to the combo (rods, pistons, girdle/caps, etc) and get the car running .. then as things come along for upgrades such as a block (i think you can use donovan 417 block ?? it will all bolt over? ) and then just progress from there.. heads, rockers, etc.
i was just curious as to if you would caps or girdle first or both?
i do not know much about the history or others combos in the nostalgia world but reading and learning.
ty
dean
sknopp:
Dean,
For what you are wanting to do you can modify your existing caps. Take the no. 1, 2, 3, and 4 caps and mill them flat across the tops (mill of the cast radius that is there). Then get some flat stock (I used 4140) 1" to 1-1/4" thick and drill them to mount on top of the caps. Put good studs in the block and use good nuts. I ran this setup with a filled block on 25% nitro with no issues. You will need to modify your oil pan.
I have seen some fabricated girdles pop up on e-bay, but have never had one.
Steve K.
dreracecar:
Its not about "setting the world on fire" as soo many people say in the begining, its about throwing good money after bad, There are not as many blocks in junkyards as there once was, and most certainly not for $25. The cost involved in prepping a block like you want is a gamble, others have had great success and lasted, and others I have dealt with went halfway thru prep before the problems appear, along with those that made it through only to have something stupid happen and kill the whole deal. The BBM 392 block has addressed a lot of these issues, but hang a rod out the side will scrap anybodys iron block new or old.
this was a first fire-up
dusterdave173:
Band Aids all of it so...keep power levels reasonable--use aluminum rods--they act like dead blow hammers and #1 is the tune up--we build and race lots of Mopar big blocks--since Mopar is not producing the aftermarket blocks anymore we are forced to use $50 junk yard block--the KEY is the tune up--NO detonation--tune it right and they have a prayer--miss it and it will crack sooner not later
Alum rod--good tune--good caps and studs--and just know it will not make it as long as you hope or give you your moneys worth
There are maybe hundreds of guys that can help based on experience with these but a stock block is and always has been a crapshoot
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