Technical > Matt Shaff's Engine Shop
Pouring an engine block after it has been bored
crider:
What did you fill with Dave?
jeff/21:
in my case the 400 was bored to 4.155 and filled it because of uneven wear pattern in the cylinders poor ring sealing the motor has been run for 2 seasons and the cylinders are straight and ring seal good
Frontenginedragsters:
Using the Hard Block product that Moroso sells works great.
You have to follow the instructions to the letter to avoid cylinder wall movement.
It needs a month to cure. Don't be in a hurry.
In the pursuit of cylinder wall happiness, I would mix and pour and then bolt your cylinder head on and torque it down.
After cure is done I would still take it to your machine shop and have him "lick" hone it.
You can measure it 10 ways from Sunday but a light hone will show you whats going on.
My 4 cents because of inflation.
Matt
dusterdave173:
Totally agree with Matt!! You must toss it back in the hone to see what Really happened--
I always use more water than they say in Hardblock or Moroso filler--I like the Moroso just fine--it is finer with less big aggregate in it I mean...you are doing a "patch up" that means it is not a by the book deal and may not be perfect but will work and run fine--you really just need to lay a little in the bottom rather than actually pour the block right? If all you want to do is stop the water then just do an inch above the problem and never look back--I like that term 'lick hone" --Matt is dead on
crider:
I'm going to go ahead and give it a shot. Nothing to lose really, the block is useless like it is. What do you guys use to clean the water passages before pouring to get the rust out?
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