Pouring an engine block after it has been bored

[crider]

Ok, I found the problem with the motor in my car. Back when I last ran this block it was a 4.5" stroke with aluminum rods so to get clearance the notches cut into the bottom of the water jackets. At the time it was going in a street car so in the interest of cooling the bottom of the jackets got filled with epoxy all was fine with that. Now it seems the epoxy has degraded and fell apart. I am thinking of re doing the epoxy then pouring the block. I know not the best to pour after it has been bored but not much else I can do outside of getting another one. My question is what filler will distort the bores the least? And should I just pour the bottom up to the freeze pugs, or go all the way to the water pump?

[jeff/21]

are you talking about a BBC?  on a SBC 400 using MOROSO block filler I had to rebore because of the distortion filled to half of the water pump coolant holes

[crider]

Yes, BBC. I'm already at >125 so a re-bore is out of the question. I have read that hasdblok doesn't expand. Anyone have first hand knowledge on that?

[ricardo1967]

I did a tall fill with Hard Blok on my SBC 400 (30 over). I measured the bores very methodically before and after the pour and didn't find significant difference (I have measurements in a Excel spreadsheet, but not on hand right now). I touched the bores with a Flex-Hone tool and I was very happy with ring sealing (it was a ring job, not fresh cut bores). But I'm gotta tell ya, it's the last time I go through that messy job, next time I'd go straight to a Dart SHP Pro block.

Good luck!

[dusterdave173]

I agree that conventional wisdom says no but my experience says no big deal do it and never look back--I build several engines a week---recently I had a finished block--customer wanted an engine but insisted on block filler--OK we measured--filled--measured--it was within a couple of tenths and really--that is closer than most can measure--including me on bores--ran like a dream so...fill er up and keep on rocking my friend

[crider]

What did you fill with Dave?

[jeff/21]

in my case the 400 was bored to 4.155 and filled it because of uneven wear pattern in the cylinders  poor ring sealing  the motor has been run for 2 seasons and the cylinders are straight and ring seal good

[Frontenginedragsters]

Using the Hard Block product that Moroso sells works great.
You have to follow the instructions to the letter to avoid cylinder wall movement.
It needs a month to cure. Don't be in a hurry.
In the pursuit of cylinder wall happiness, I would mix and pour and then bolt your cylinder head on and torque it down.
After cure is done I would still take it to your machine shop and have him "lick" hone it.
You can measure it 10 ways from Sunday but a light hone will show you whats going on.

My 4 cents because of inflation.

Matt

[dusterdave173]

Totally agree with Matt!! You must toss it back in the hone to see what Really happened--
I always use more water than they say in Hardblock or Moroso filler--I like the Moroso just fine--it is finer with less big aggregate in it  I mean...you are doing a "patch up"  that means it is not a by the book deal and may not be perfect but will work and run fine--you really just need to lay a little in the bottom rather than actually pour the block right? If all you want to do is stop the water then just do an inch above the problem and never look back--I like that term 'lick hone" --Matt is dead on

[crider]

I'm going to go ahead and give it a shot. Nothing to lose really, the block is useless like it is. What do you guys use to clean the water passages before pouring to get the rust out?

[dusterdave173]

a quick shot of Muriatic acid from Lowes will do it--neutralize with soap and soap and lots of rinse 
It happens fast so don't walk off and leave it for sure---even if you toss that" liquid sidewalk" in there on top of the trash it will do the job--I mentioned adding more water than they say because it makes it easier by a mile to pour where I want it to go  Matt mentioned do Exactly as they say so he knows way more than I do about final results but since you are just patching a hole to keep water in I am guessing it won't really matter?
Every shop in the world that did 383 Chevys when they first came along--would bore into water--this was before smaller rods etc when those were harder to do--we always just tossed and inch or so of whatever filler was handy--it always sealed up no matter what--Good luck!
Bob our neighbor--between you and me-- is testing at Rockingham today and I know he took a can of nitro so I can't wait to hear how it went--was going to be a little to windy for me to quarter mile it--you pass the grandstands there with the wind blowing and you get quite a surprise--hope to be out testing very soon so get her together and we will see you out there

[crider]

Thanks again Dave. Bob had messaged me about going to rockingham as well, but with this latest round of engine trouble I had to decline. I'm looking forward to his results too. It's been years since I have been to the rock, but it was a pretty nice track from what I remember

[dusterdave173]

Just got off the phone with Bob--Track was not prepped--slick as Teflon with butter--he said he almost knocked the tree down--another guy just called me saying same thing---so be glad we did not go but...we will as soon as you get her back together   also a guy flipped a car there today so............

[crider]

Sounds like a rough place to be today. I'm glad to be home, that's a pretty good haul for me to not have a decent track to run on

[jeff/21]

back to the fill i always run a see through plastic hose from the drain plug to the deck and remove it after the fill so the water can be emptied make it easier when doing maintenance
have also used it in street motors and inboard hydros help with good ring sealing