I agree with Rooman, "Too much, not enough", etc. Too much power= too much tire speed, Not enough power= not enough to get "Up" on the tire, Too much clutch= hitting the tire too hard, not enough clutch= not getting up on the tire, too much tire= again can't get up on the tire [ dead hook, like Super Comp, stop and go cars], not enough tire= too much tire speed will shake, too much track= hard to get enough tire speed, not enough track= too much tire speed.
Confusing isn't it, they all can be a reason why it's shaking your fillings out.
This is what I do; low wheelie bar 2" [ so your toe fits under the wheel], this allows the front wheels to come up some, but not enough to hit the WB hard and unload the slicks. We set the WB with the driver in the car, because of tire squat. We run the 31x12x15 Goodyear that are the lightest at 26lbs each, at 5 3/4 to 6 1/4 lbs on 11 or 12" wide wheels.
If you are lifting up the wheels hard and fast put at least 20 lbs on the nose. Car balance is a real trick, you have to work on it. RacePak even has a WB pressure sensor to measure how hard it's hitting the WB. Of course if you don't have a RacePak, just keep adding, subtracting ballast.I have seen cars add 20 lbs on the nose and pick-up a tenth.
We have one JrFueler take his WB off, but added 60 lbs to the nose, trying to get rid of the "J" Hook from the RacePak driveshaft curve. And they run 7.13-7.015 with an all iron non raised runner all iron SBC on alky. "J hook is where the driveshaft curve [ tire speed] shows the tire speed grow fast, then hook up, and bring down the g meter, and engine RPM.
I relate to the too much clutch question to my stall on my converter, I have run a looser[ higher stall] converter so it hits the tires a bit softer, and still have 1.01-1.04 sixty foots. Also running a 1.68 first gear has helped hitting the tires too hard, for 4 years now.
I hope some of this helps guys.
Maybe Glenn will move this posting to "Jon's Wheel House"
Jon