used altered

[brianm]

i and new to this site and need some help.  i have been driving a 6.90 in the 1/8 mustang for several years now and am looking to get an altered roller.  what do i need to be looking for in a used altered?  what type of rear suspension solid rear or 4 link?  what about front suspension?   i plan on using my 460 and would like to run low 6's to high 5's in 1/8.  would appreciate your help.

[dusterdave173]

Just start looking and take your time--the right one will come along. Look for the best build quality built by a known maker like S&W etc not a home built back yard car--welding is usually not good on home built units--the welding is key
If you are patient a real nice car will come along---Craigslist has lots of altered seems like and keep an eye on Racingjunk--look for cockpit that will fit you not too tight--with a 460 first pass should be mid to low fives easy as pie!
Buy the best quality you can find --ebay also has lots of altered but always always go see car before you throw down the loot or you will be sorry  Good Luck!!!

[denverflatheader]

brianm – mid to low 5s, that means 7s for the quarter with a 460.  At that speed, I’d focus on safety first plus look at cars with chassis cert.  If no current cert, better make purchase contingent on certing.  Pay up front or you might pay “more” later.  At your track, look at any consistent frontrunners to see what their altered has for front and rear suspension.  If you want to run with them…  Since you’re a racer, you know your first pass with Brand New car, go easy to check out every item.  Save the 5 second pass for the 2nd or 3rd test and tune.  Alan

p.s.  My experience with racing, not too many things easy as pie : )

[Roger]

Went through this same thing last winter when looking for my current altered. My view is that my racecar is an investment of my hard earned dollars so I want the most for my money. Get a professionally built car from a name builder. I trust my safety more with one of them than someone I’ve never heard of and have no knowledge of their fabrication, engineering, or welding skills. Be sure the car has a current chassis certification BEFORE you buy it, which can save a lot of headaches and dollars later on. As Dave said, be patient and get what you need. Be sure it fits you, especially be sure you have a couple of inches between your helmet and the top of the roll cage when you’re belted in it. Solid or sprung rear suspension will work. My chassis fabricator says that with today’s tires and the lower horsepower some of us run that either will work well. And if you buy a roller that isn’t completed for your application, be prepared to spend more money thank you think you need to in order to make it work cause buying new parts ain’t cheap. Then when you’re done, enjoy!

[dreracecar]

Get ahold of Rod Hynes on facebook

[glofria]

Here is the link that Bruce mentioned: https://www.facebook.com/rod.hynes.5/media_set?set=a.10210756918664323.1073741852.1390610093&type=3&pnref=story

Rod was the real deal AA/FA racer.

[Van]

First thing you need to know the chassis requirements needed to install a 385 series Ford in a dragster or altered, The motor needs to be just about level or at most 1/2 degree down. the frame at the motor plate must be 19 1/2 minimum inside the top rails, I prefer 20.  I build my own cars at home, all my cars have pro taged 5.99 or faster on the first inspection. Home built cars are not highly regarded on this form, I guess !!  If you would like a little inspiration please go to facebook and search Nightmare Dragster and or Nightmare racing. Yes I race the 460
 
 Van 

[Keven]

Doing my daily FED.org check, I come across this thread and have to throw my two cents in. As Van mentioned above, we built the Nightmare Dragster in his backyard a few years ago. The entire car is built overkill down to every tube being the heavier wall then NHRA demands. At this time we are running a 532 c.i. 385 series on blown alcohol with basically bone stock aluminum Cobrajet heads, very little work on them. Two Sundays ago, 9-11, we took it to Fontana for a test and tune. We ran a 7.45 @ 180.09 and a 7.47 @181.18. To compare the numbers mentioned earlier in this thread the 60' is 1.10, 1/8 mile is 4.75 @146.48. Our Facebook link is below with video of the second run. The Ford will haul the mail.

[glofria]

Hi Van and Kevin,

It would appear that we travel in the same circle. Here is the car we run at ANRA and Vintage 7.60 events:

BTW, our car was home built in our shop over 20 years-ago and it is still holding up just fine.

Regards,
Gino Ofria

[Curly1]

Okay, my opinions for what it is worth. A four link car has a better resale but can also be harder to tune the chassis. Make sure you look over car closely and look at their log book for aborted runs, consistency and performance.
If something does not look right walk away. There are many good cars out there and they are hard to get rid of if you get one with problems. Take your time and get one that will work for you.
On my car I bought a four link that I thought was a good car but later found out it had a lot of issues. The rear springs were WAY too stiff in effect making it a hard tail. That may have been the only reason it would get down the track at all because it did not have an Anti-Roll Bar and corner weights and IC was way off. Car would pull huge wheelie and make a hard right turn front wheels in the air. To resolve it first off I built a heavy duty Anti-Roll Bar and then set up chassis with some right rear preload. Then I bought new AFCO shocks and soft springs. Was still trying to pull hard wheelies so I moved IC back and up some. Now car does not try to stand straight up on the starting line. It pulls front wheels up slowly and goes straight most of the time. Once your chassis tuned right you drop wheelie bars down low to keep it under control. In the end it does not matter much if it is a hard tail or four both have advantages and disadvantages and you get what you want.
Now the reason I talk about chassis tuning on an Altered is critical. Things can get ugly quick if it is not perfect. That is also one of the reasons that an Altered is so much fun to drive, you have to pay attention and stay on top of it.

[brianm]

Thank you for all the replies.  i am in no hurry at all.  i am just trying to get information and learn what i need to look for when the right car comes along.  i have always like the altereds from when my dad used to take us to the races when we were kids.  i now have the opportunity to start looking for one.   i enjoyed building and driving my mustang but now i want something different.  the car will mainly be used to bracket race but i also want to attend the nearby nostalgia races.  thank you again for your help.

[denverflatheader]

brianm – like you, I continually learning from this site.

Curly1 – enjoyed reading how you resolved your issues.

Keven - Thanks for posting times, 385 series surely designed well.

glofria -  enjoyed seeing your video, 20 year old build and still impressive today!

[dreracecar]

My chassis w/ proper set-up 105" wheelbase, Donovan 417 on NITRO,

[slingshot383]

First off, get yourself measured so that you know what size cockpit you need. Put on your firesuit, helmet boots, gloves, sit down against a wall, bend your knees until your outstretched hands just touch your knees with your heels on the floor.  Now, roll your shoulders flat to the wall, and have somebody measure: floor to 2" above helmet, width outside to outside of your shoulders, from wall to your palm, from midpoint of your upper arm to the floor.  These numbers will tell you what you can and will not fit in, bigger you can pad the seat to fit, small you you will not fit!

[dreracecar]

The Mr Boston car is the second owner. The guy I first built it for was short and heavy thus the frame is really wide  at the motor plate so his feet would fit on either side of the trans, He said it fit like he was in his easy chair at home. I told him when I made the seat, I went down to the hardware store and bought a wheelbarrow and Dzus'd it in. Howard Haight was the same size and fit right in--no problems.
   So what I am saying is that there is no need to be cramped in a car like this and give yourself plenty of room