Author Topic: Another Powerglide question  (Read 13095 times)

Offline bikeguy307

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Re: Another Powerglide question
« Reply #15 on: July 07, 2016, 05:22:58 AM »
Running direct drive is not really for your application. A direct slips the band till it gets going. A band is not going to last long doing this on pavement, on dirt they spin the tires like dumping the clutch so it is not as hard on the band. My Dad tells me they use to push start rear pump automatics but said " you have get to haulin ass to make it work" based on that, I would assume a stall converter would make it worse.

Ponti

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Re: Another Powerglide question
« Reply #16 on: July 07, 2016, 05:42:22 AM »
Cheers

 I have seen it say about rear pump units need to be pushed about 25 - 30 mph to get it all spinning enough.

Offline jeff/21

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Re: Another Powerglide question
« Reply #17 on: July 07, 2016, 05:12:19 PM »
Direct drive is no good for drag racing or street as you bypass the oil from the pump back to the pan to engage you close the valve as fast as possible so the band don't slip too much burning it out.worked good in a  dirt modified and the ice racer 35 yrs ago you could always go with a turbo clutch or a clutch flite

dreracecar

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Re: Another Powerglide question
« Reply #18 on: July 07, 2016, 05:53:33 PM »
Circle track cars are a rolling start in gear, with a direct drive you could not stage(roll into the beams and stop) and on the last yellow of the tree go from neutral into low with engine rpms up thus slamming the chit out of all the internals

Offline jeff/21

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Re: Another Powerglide question
« Reply #19 on: July 08, 2016, 04:13:40 PM »
dreracecar is right, rolling starts only and you could burn it loading on the trailer.

Offline PSweeney

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Re: Another Powerglide question
« Reply #20 on: July 25, 2016, 07:19:04 AM »
you need a shortly gear-set and front pump glide.  Either buy one already done or speak to Andy Frost to short your stock one.   Steve Field can guide you through what's needed inbetween