Author Topic: shift rpm  (Read 6009 times)

Offline spookie

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 61
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 8.92 1/4 5.59 1/8
  • Your Track: Quarter Aces drag-o-way
  • Your Vehicle: F.E.D.
shift rpm
« on: May 01, 2016, 06:29:20 AM »
Have 406sbc 12.5-1 comp. 4bolt mains. RHS heads 220cc 2.02/1.60 valves 1.5 rockers.Flat tappet cam:.550in .570ex lift 288/296 advertised duration on 106 lobe separation With 1.43 springs.Crower stack injection on alcohol with 5" tubes. With zoomie headers in 1600# FED what would a good place to start trying shift. PG with 1.76 gear

Offline dusterdave173

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 638
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.38in 1/8th
  • Your Engine: 355 CI SBC
  • Your Track: Mooresville, NC
  • Your Vehicle: CenPen 200 inch FED
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2016, 08:16:20 AM »
The correct answer is the good ole shift loop
You make a pass shift at 5000, another at 5500, another at 6000 etc and very soon you find out what it likes
My experience as a rookie is that you almost forget to shift those first few runs LOL  it matters much less in our dragsters than any other form of drag racing--shift as soon as you remember ( or get your sight back after launch) and then just let her eat
I run dynos all the time and it is a technical question with technical answer that really does not matter very much in what we are running and doing--but if I had to guess I would say start out around 6500 ish and go from there  Have fun!!!
I have always had a fascination with fast cars at the expense of more normal character development

Offline dusterdave173

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 638
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.38in 1/8th
  • Your Engine: 355 CI SBC
  • Your Track: Mooresville, NC
  • Your Vehicle: CenPen 200 inch FED
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2016, 08:19:45 AM »
1.43 springs are borderline unless you have high dollar units that are just right--a haul ass drag engine needs the biggest best springs you can get at least a 1.500 or 1.550  Bigger better springs are a GIANT plus in any high RPM engine--I would rather have stock rods and the best spring titanium retainer combo available than the other way around

It really matters more than anything else--build her loose and have a killer spring / titanium retainer package and you will be WAY ahead of the game
I have always had a fascination with fast cars at the expense of more normal character development

Offline wideopen231

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1911
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 1/8 3.70@ 198 1/4 5.78@245
  • Your Engine: Hemi 526 ci alcohol
  • Your Track: Piedmont
  • Your Vehicle: 225 CMC FED
  • General Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2016, 02:54:13 PM »
what is stall ? Normally shift around 800 to 1000 above stall. Much earlier and its almost like leaving in high gear,which can be helpful on bad track. Do you shift or is it shifted by solenoid?
Relecting obama is like shooting right foot because it did not hurt enough when you shot left foot

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2016, 03:13:57 PM »
You fail to mention (as do most people posting on here) as to the type of racing are you running , weather its all out, or on a index.
 I was fortunet to have a car that ran below the index and never had a tach on the car (cant see it because of vibration). Driver shifts just at the point of feeling peak before going over the nose. I told him "I dont care where you shift at, but shift it at the same point of feel every time and I will adjust the car to the number" I trust the seat of the pants feel of the driver more than a hard to see needle and a shift light bulb that can fail.

Offline spookie

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 61
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 8.92 1/4 5.59 1/8
  • Your Track: Quarter Aces drag-o-way
  • Your Vehicle: F.E.D.
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2016, 04:16:27 PM »
I bracket race,and I do have a shift solenoid. The last time I had a T&T fall back on converter was 5100rpm ,shifted at 6200. Ran 5.70is,but cold and rain have stopped T&T. Want to find sweet spot before racing $tart$ Thanks for all input. :D

Offline dusterdave173

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 638
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.38in 1/8th
  • Your Engine: 355 CI SBC
  • Your Track: Mooresville, NC
  • Your Vehicle: CenPen 200 inch FED
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2016, 04:57:07 PM »
shift loop is the best test you can do and is easy as pie  Tried and true

Good luck!!
I have always had a fascination with fast cars at the expense of more normal character development

Offline Frontenginedragsters

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 202
    • View Profile
    • Pro-Formance Specialties
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2016, 04:45:19 PM »
I don't know what the duration @.050" tappet lift is. Maybe 250-262*? Also don't know what intake centerline degree the cam is installed at.
The torque curve with a 106* lobe separation will be a narrower than a wider one, say 110*.
Do you have good rods and lighter pistons? If the cam is installed with a intake centerline of about 108 or 110* it should run to 6400-6800.
Sounds like you have a re-play tach? Its great if you can see the RPM it drops to on the shift.

Matt
Driving a Front Engine Dragster builds character and keeps you awake for a 1/4 mile at a time.
http://www.pro-formancespecialties.com/

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: shift rpm
« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2016, 09:01:28 AM »
Shift point???    Don't shift unless you are in front ;D