Newby with Questions

[Oldford 65]

Just bought a FED roller and wonder what I should set the pinion angle and tranny at, powerglide with long tailshaft and 9" rear.  I will be using a driveshaft.  Also with the 1/4" plate between motor and tranny will that be a problem for the starter and converter to engage? I'm putting a sbc in it.  I've built a dozen streetrods starting with a bare frame but this is a little different.  I'll get some pictures posted soon.   Thanks

[rooman]

The driveline should be a straight line from the crank centerline to the rear end. Chassis builders normally use a dummy block and a line up bar that bolts to the third member to position the motor/trans in the frame. By driveshaft are you talking a regular U-jointed unit or a splined coupler style?. It is a good idea to let your converter manufacturer know that the unit will be installed with a mid plate. On most starters there is enough pinion travel to engage the ring gear but it would be a good idea to double check.

Roo

[Oldford 65]

Thanks for the info.  I was planning on using a regular driveshaft with u joints....is that a bad idea? Only planning on having 350 - 400hp.  I'm 65 years old, I think that will be fast enough.  It will mostly be test and tune and some bracket racing.

[fuel749]

On a chevy, the starter and ring gear relationship doesn't change with the addition of a motor plate. The converter will need spacers or need to be purpose built for use with a motor plate.

[dreracecar]

A drive shaft with U-joints is not the way to go, there is more work into building a cover around it and unless you angle the relationship of the yokes at both ends you will pound the u-joints which can lead to failure.
 Couplers are relitivly inexpensive and dont require too much maintenence.

 Is the reason for the u-joints, because you already have a stock the 3rd member with the yoke on it? Stock Ford housings with blow the pinion carrier out of it unless its nodular iron 

[Oldford 65]

I'm new to all this.  I already have the cover that goes around driveshaft, it came with the rolling chasiss ...that was what the previous owner was going to use.  Yes I already have a 9" but I need to put a 35 spline spool in it. After reading your post I don't want anything coming apart with my legs wrap around it.  I think I will just get new 3rd member and coupler from Strange.  The housing has a 1 piece axle with 35 spline, is that better than 2 axles?  Hopefully I can get this put together in the next couple months.  Thanks again

[dreracecar]

Not much info on the car itself, So a standard question for me is
  Does it have  a SFI chassis sticker on it?

[Oldford 65]

No sticker yet.  Do I just get it inspected when the chassis is done or when it is completed?  I don't have any info other than it is 184" wheelbase, front end has a arms and R&P steering, drivers cage has been updated.

[George]

No sticker yet.  Do I just get it inspected when the chassis is done or when it is completed?  I don't have any info other than it is 184" wheelbase, front end has a arms and R&P steering, drivers cage has been updated.
[/quot

If it doesn't have a current certification I would have it inspected now. You may find you have a show/cackle only chassis. We bought a " only needs a few lines to race" F.E.D.only to spend the next 1.5 years rebuilding the chassis , engine and transmission. I will NOT buy another race car without a current sticker and paperwork.

[probird]

How bout some pictures? A thousand words...........

[GlennLever]

Here are some pictures I received from Randy to be posted.

[Oldford 65]

Thanks Glenn.  The only thing I know about this that it was probably built in the late 90"s and recently came from Daytona area. Anybody recognize this chassis?  I know it has the wrong type front end on it, lol

[George]

Pictures can't tell tubing size or thickness.

[digster]

Nice looking car Randy.
 I'm a guy with first hand disappointment on a sonic check when I thought I was all ready to sticker. My 2 cents would be get a hold of the person who will be certifying the car now. Work with the guy. A phone call and a couple quick checks to make sure things are on track would be money well spent. It will make final certification easier. All dressed up with no place to go is NO Fun.

[dreracecar]

Just got off the phone with someone who just failed chassis tag, trusted the guy who sold it to him that it would cert and had a bunch of work done, had to tell the guy that he would be better off getting another chassis as would have to replace 65% of the tubing according to the SFI cert paper