battery disconnect with mag kill

[wideopen231]

According to rules io have to have th master disconnect also kill the mag.Have few ideas ,but never hurts to get input from others. Anyone have setup and maybe pics of it?

[George]

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0015/s0002

[dreracecar]

Master switch only required if carrying a battery for starting purposes/electric fuel pumps. If the battery is for tranny brake or intruments, then not required and cockpit mag kill switch is enough

[H.G. Wells]

I cannot find the pn on the set up that I used, but I believe it was from Jegs and is simply a normally open relay that sends the mag to ground when the power is shut off to the relay. This was on the car when it had a battery to self start. Use a regular master kill switch wired to the relay. 

But Bruce is right and I have told more that one tech guy "why do I need a battery shut off if I don't have a battery". (when the car did not carry a battery to start just a small dry cell to run the shift light and brake)

[wideopen231]

Car will have battery for starter,delay box, ttraqns brake ,gauges,tail light and driving lights for those tracks with dark shut down and return roads.

Relay would require more wiring than the flamming river piece.My cut off is right in front of engine,batter infront of front axle and cable out rear.Matter of fact cut off is less than foot from mag box.Down side flamingriver unit is about 100 more than normal shut off. Oh well the price you pay for the way we love to play

[George]

Car will have battery for starter,delay box, ttraqns brake ,gauges,tail light and driving lights for those tracks with dark shut down and return roads.

Relay would require more wiring than the flamming river piece.My cut off is right in front of engine,batter infront of front axle and cable out rear.Matter of fact cut off is less than foot from mag box.Down side flamingriver unit is about 100 more than normal shut off. Oh well the price you pay for the way we love to play
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We have run the Flaming River switch for several years without a problem. A full size battery is  in our nose piece and powers all you have described for your build. A push/pull cable connects the switch that is mounted to the side of the Powerglide and a handle mounted to the rear of the car ( PUSH OFF).

[Van]

This is a very interesting thread. When I brought out my new FED to Bakersfield I was told that the switch must be controlled from the rear, so we drove to town and bought welding cable and moved the switch to the rear. When we tried to go back through Tec the second time we were told OK you can make a few short hits today but don't come back again until the switch is located on or at the battery. No cable allowed to travel any distance before the switch. The battery is at the front axle, switch mounted on the battery and Morse cable running the full distance to the rear = push pull and required decal for off. It was explained this way, Having a live cable traveling any distance that is still live after the switch is off endangers the safety crew that might be trying to get the driver out of a wrecked car. Don't do it and if you did, fix it now.

[wideopen231]

Not sure about it mounted to battery rule.I have seen tons of RED's with battery mounted nose or midway with disconect near rear of car.Not saying it is not just I have not seen it writen and diffently not enforced around here if it is.

[wideopen231]

Just read heritage series rule and found nothing about switch location.Only that a shutoff must be located at rear of car. and cable sizes are specified.

[Draw 3D]

From 2015 HRHS rule book:

8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical
power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and
be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the
positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including
magneto ignition. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, “pull” to
turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch
diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located
behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.

I use a relay to kill the mag when power is off.

[H.G. Wells]

When my car was configured with a battery I used a morse cable at the rear to activate the shut off that was located at the front of the motor, between the starter and the battery. 

The relay was only used to ground the mag and was a very simple deal. As long as the power was feeding the relay the circuit to the mag was open. When the power was shut off to the relay the relay sent the mag to ground.

[JrFuel Hayden]

Tech has never said we had to have a shut-off in our Heritage JrFueler, even when Good Guys was running JF.
No doubt because we don't have an on-board starter battery, just a one pound battery to run the RacePak, trans brake, tail light, and shift light.
 We use a Hayden, light weight [ 10 lb] remote 24 volt battery pack to start the engine.  24 volts is needed because we need to spin the motor fast enough for the 20 amp MSD mag and the 16;1 compression.

Jon

[wideopen231]

Yea if was running headup deal i would not have battery onboard.Since its mostly bracket deal using starter pack is not option.Never who will or will not be there when racing. Hey leaving battery,cable and switch out would save a bunch of weight and maybe some cost.

  Going with 16v battery setup.Better than one 12 and lot less weight and cost than 2-12v.Only 13:1 but the 4.5" arm doesneed help getting spinning for mag.

[dreracecar]

On a customers car in order to keep the cables short, I mounted the shutoff close to the battery and made a plate to mount a shifter solinoid (kicker style) and ran some 16ga to the back of the car with a machinery kill switch.  Manually turn the switch on and off to save from hammering the shutoff, but in an emergencey hitting the rear switch energizes the solinoid and bumps the shutoff to kill all battery power including the solinoid. Tried to get NHRA to look at this for door cars where it would also include a roll-over switch so in a crash and the car gets upside down the fuel pumps would be shut down and the power killed before the car even stops crashing

[Van]

Bruce's Setup is great and accomplishes what Tec at Bakersfield want to see. I will use this on my Altered that I am building. I am thinking a door lock solenoid to trip the switch should do it.
 Thanks Bruce