Author Topic: brake pedal location  (Read 5490 times)

Offline probird

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 75
    • View Profile
  • Your Track: alberta
brake pedal location
« on: January 07, 2016, 09:58:17 PM »
I need to put in the brake pedals in the rail.
When the previous owner installed it, he moved the engine and trans forward 6 inches.
I moved the drivetrain back to where it should be and now the location for the wildwood floor mount wont go there because of the shifter cable.
I was thinking of a bracket on the floor and put in a reverse brake pedal mounted upside down. Put the master under the rear and run a rod to activate it.
Thoughts?
Thanks for the help from everyone!
Barry.

Offline rooman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 559
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 6.200/222.05 (1/4 mile--NT/F)
Re: brake pedal location
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2016, 05:02:20 AM »
Barry,
        your suggestion is how I normally do it. I generally use a fabricated pedal, either tubular or aluminum, and put the master cylinder mount on the rear end upright. Doing it that way has the added advantage of making the brake line routing simpler and also making it easier to pull the transmission due to the extra clearance up front.
  This is Glenn's car where I put one side of the pivot on the diagonal with a tab to the floor diagonal to put it in double shear. If the diagonal is not convenient a pair of tabs will also do the trick. If you want to make a tubular pedal Frank Parks has a nice pad, pivot bush/lower arm package available





Roo
Yeah, I am from the south--any further south and I would have been a bloody penguin.

Offline probird

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 75
    • View Profile
  • Your Track: alberta
Re: brake pedal location
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2016, 06:57:30 AM »
Thanks Roo!
I'll check out Franks or just make something.
I looked online for a similar setup but no luck.
It's coming together. 140 days until the first race!

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: brake pedal location
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2016, 08:02:22 AM »
Sitting in the car all suited up like you about to stage will determine  peddle possision. Also , thinking out of the norm helps. Notice that on Roos peddle that the top curve goes back towards the driver? If you reverse that and go forward and offset the pad, you can gain some extra leg room or find a more favorable mount for the pivot. You will have to either make the peddle out of tubing or thicker plate (norm .250) because of the twist from the pad offset. I Frequently have to do that on some restos for the clutch peddle because the new owners are bigger than the original smaller drivers in a very restrictive space.

Offline probird

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 75
    • View Profile
  • Your Track: alberta
Re: brake pedal location
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2016, 08:44:21 AM »
I'll make a template out of hard board. Another good idea! Thanks.
Also one more question for now..... I'm  putting a nice full length belly pan in. Do I need a floor pans or just a guard to keep my feet from falling down? Like a heel stop/rest?
« Last Edit: January 08, 2016, 08:58:54 AM by probird »

Offline Larry Gocha

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 86
    • View Profile
Re: brake pedal location
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2016, 09:34:24 AM »
I don't know where your foot will be sitting but in the car I drove my heel was right above the trans brake solenoid and I had to make a shield to cover it because I kept hitting the plunger with my heel not good. I know it don't have to do with the brake pedal just a note.

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: brake pedal location
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2016, 09:45:11 AM »
Need is not relevant, its weather you want to or not. On my car since I used a hand brake I mounted a peddle off the tail housing tranny mount to apply pressure to the TB solinoid and had a tubing "dead peddle" on the frame for the left foot during the run completely away from the peddle. What you dont want is any chance of the foot/boot getting hung up.
  One more thing that people need to do is the studs that are in the RE housing under the left leg/knee is to replace those with threaded inserts in the housing and use bolts there. The drivers boots can get hung up on them trying to climb out (and taping the boots closed is messy) and the studs will wear a hole in the drivers suit after time.