Technical > Roo Man's Room
Changing from torsion front end to a-arm front end
hemidakota:
A couple pics of my fed. Please Pick it apart. Any advice would be helpful. I do like the drop axle look but do not want to reinvent the wheel. I do have to replace radius rods as for one has been repaired and covered up well. If there is anything else I would like to catch it now. There are a few things I don't like but I would like a few thoughts from others. Thanks as always...
rooman:
I see some good things there--lock stops for the steering bell crank and the fact that the bell crank pivot is in double shear. If you keep the torsion bar I would suggest steering from the bell crank to one wheel and then back to the other with a single tie rod. As it is now, if the suspension actually articulates you will get some toe variation through the travel.
If you don't want suspension in the front just lock up the torsion bar and leave the steering as it is.
It also looks as if it has tabs for engine limiters--another good thing.
Roo
hemidakota:
Thanks Rooman. So you don't have a problem with all the rod ends mounted on single tabs the way it is? I always thought it should be a tab on either side or a solid rod end with the tabs in the center. I guess I'm overly concerned over the simple things... It all seems to work well. I would like to remount the steering arm along the side of the chassis with Teflon bushings of some sort instead of it being metal to metal, if that is necessary? Sorry for all the questions but going 175+mph I don't want any problems. Thanks again.
rooman:
Metal to metal works OK for the steering sliders--generally a 1/4" thick aluminum piece tabbed to the frame rails where appropriate.
Mounting rod ends in double shear is good practice as is a clevis on a single bracket but what you have will work OK.
Roo
dreracecar:
Any way to have the short steering rod from the steering box to the long steering (slider) rod straight instead of bent?
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