Technical > Roo Man's Room

Changing from torsion front end to a-arm front end

<< < (3/7) > >>

rooman:
A couple more things after having a closer look at the photos on a bigger monitor. It may pay to put a spacer behind the heim where the radius rods attach to the frame as it looks as if you are about out of radial travel there. I know that there is very little motion at that point but it is just good practice.
  Also please lose the socket head cap screws in the steering and replace them with some good quality bolts--preferably AN or NAS. If cost or sourcing is a problem with that option the next best thing is to buy the appropriate length bolt that puts the shank through the mating parts and then cut off the excess thread. That can be difficult as the shank lengths are in larger increments than with the aircraft bolts which come in 1/16" splits. And please use fine thread bolts--coarse thread is for tractors and for threads in aluminum or cast iron.
   Finally, the photos do not show if you have anti "pull through" washers on the steering heims as required in the NHRA etc rules.  Chassis Shop/ Pro Werks have a good one that adds radial clearance and satisfies the rule.    http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/15343/

Roo

dreracecar:
Something I just noticed,
  Really?? spliced ty-rods???  OK for mock up or an emergency repair at the track , but not on a finnished piece.

 Another reason for the straight steering rod---- have somebody hold the front wheels from turning and rock the steering wheel, that bent rod will flop as the heims find straight line adding play into the steering which would not be there if it was straight.

hemidakota:
This is why I like this site. Thanks for the input! So that being said, what size and thickness of tubing should be used on tie rods and steering rod down side of chassis? also for radius rods? I know its been said before but want to ask again. Will have to post better Pics on photo bucket so they can be easier viewed. Thanks again guys. Oh and one other thing, the steering rod down side of chassis has a long section in the front with no supports, is that for chassis flex so it wont bind up?

dreracecar:
Most threaded bungs are machined for .058 tubing
Ty-rods are mostly 3/4" dia.
Since the long rod is supported at both ends and extra slider is not needed unless the dia. is too small. I would make the long rod 7/8" min and the short one 3/4" min or 7/8" to match the long.  Some dragsters require a bend in the short rod, but the bend is close to the steering arm  and use a clevis instead of a heim to attach to the arm, that will keep the rod from twisting with steering input plus one goes with a larger dia (7/8")

hemidakota:
Sorry to revisit such an old thread. Now I am back to dragster front end. I want to cut torsion off of front of chassis, remove radius arms, steering bell crank and entire front end. I would like to have a 32" wide front axle(king pin to king pin) with a 4-5 inch drop welded to front of chassis and steering arm to spindle without bell crank. I think it would be simple and effective. What do you all think? And Bruce what all will you need from me to build me a axle? Spindle and king pin? Thanks again.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page