new fed to me questions

[rooman]

You could lose some of the mass in the rear end mounting plates. Anything outside of a line drawn from a point 1.5 bolt diameters out from the top and bottom bolts to just to the rear of the axle centerline is really just ballast as that is all that the rule requires. I use the Strange H1110 housing in most of my builds and I normally make the bracket come vertically up (and down) off the housing for about 1/2" and then radius it before running it straight to the top and bottom mounting points. That said, if the brackets are landing on a floater spindle or out on the tubes on a normal housing I normally make the bracket so that I can bore the hole for the tube and slide it over the tube before welding the housing ends/spindles in place. Again I usually only leave about 1/2" of material outboard of the axle housing end.

Roo

[probird]

Well I have the coupler cut and fit in. I was able to trim it to size and have enough space. slides in back and forth with ease.
Next up.
Larger trans and raised so now the steering cross member hits the trans. lol.
Will move the cross member back a little bit, raise it up slightly and make a new bracket for the box.

[probird]

OK!. Update--------------
Have been working hard on the frame. redid the upper rails and put new uprights in the middle. added diagonals in between them. slid a PROPER sleeve in the upper rail and cut new pieces of tube to fit in between.
No way I was going to get the inner sleeve to slide in so I used a really thin zip disc from work to cut both new tubes in half. clamped them on and made a 1/16 gap all around for welding. there's 4 holes on each side for rosette welds. just waiting for my welder to get back in town.
Picture 2 is moving the cross member up and back as raising the motor and trans, the cross member hit it. cut a bracket for the steering box and weld on the tabs.
then pull it all apart when the welder get here lol.

[probird]

Another one lol.
Had a friends son come and do the welding for me. He did a nice job. boilermaker by trade. has lots of coil tubing and stainless experience. Now all I need to do is all of the little brackets to install everything. about 3 weeks from now, will get it blasted and a nice coat of epoxy. Just in case I need to add something. A lot straighter than before.

[probird]

Update!
I've been working on the rail quite a bit. Blasted the powder coat off.(PITA!) and painted it with epoxy black. Just in case I needed to add or change anything. finished cleaning and lubing the front end. nice and smooth now with no binding. put the engine, trans and rear end in. all straight and even. now time to finish all the little stuff. 38 days to go until I get my licence. here is a couple pics. front, side wiring and gauges and coil.
Barry.

[probird]

My first try with the bead roller. Made the engine pan. Had a Friend weld it up and now just need to make some brackets to install.

[probird]

Update!
Went and took my 6 runs for my 4A licence and everything went great. A few red lights but had a 008 and 003 lights. Not bad after 10 years of not racing. Need to practice/seat time. The car did 9.30 145. I was leaving off the brake at 4000. By the end I was getting comfortable. First run forgot to put my head back and rang the roll bar! lol Learn by my mistakes. Big thanks to this site and all the help from the fellows on here! Its a fun ride! Got it a little bouncy on one run. I just got off the brakes then back on lightly until it settled down. Any suggestions on stopping the bounce? Thanks guys!(now I just need to get a gopro or something like that. We all like videos! lol)
Barry.

[JrFuel Hayden]

What tires and pressure ?

Jon

[probird]

33-12-15 d2623 Goodyear's on a 12 inch rim at about 8 psi. That's what came with the fed.

[JrFuel Hayden]

Goodyear has not made that tire in at least 5 years, so it may have harder rubber [ because of age], plus I run 5.5 to 6.25 lbs of pressure in our 190 mph JrFuel 225" WB car running 31x12x15 Goodyear [# D2585 light weight 22.6 lbs] on 12" rims. You may be running into tire shake running old hard tires with too much tire pressure.
BTW, the last 33x12x15 tire made is # 1288. Both of the D2585, & D1288 Goodyear tires, they have on a current do not build list, since 2012, but I had them make both on a special order, which I still have available.   

Let me know if you want any more tire info or help,
Jon, 800-624-3803, 805-444-4489, cell

[probird]

UPDATE!
I tried the pressure at 7psi  and it just dead hooked and sent me crooked towards the tree! yikes lol. tried it again and it did the same. so for the third qualifying pass, i put it back to 8psi and it went straight. left it there and went 2 rounds on Saturday and 3 rounds on Sunday! It was a steady 9.4's at 145 all weekend after that. Now i just need to find the sweet spot on the tree.

Barry

[probird]

Hello Fedders! The rail is running great at 8 psi. Going through it, i noticed one tire looks like it is separating and one is starting. Has anyone seen this before? I have the date code on the tires= 50TZM855 maybe one can figure it out. Anyways i think i might need some rears lol! We have one 1/8 mile race weekend then a big one in Saskatoon. 50th anniversary. should be a full house there.
Barry.