Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters

new fed to me questions

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probird:
ok cut the 4 tabs off and pulled the rear end. Going to by two new uprights with bushings.
There a little bent. N&P has them. Replace the rear mounting plates. should line up fine.
The only other issue I have is the frame is bent in the middle. I know.......Buyer beware. but Grapro and I think we should be able to cut and straighten it up. looks like they did a bad job of fitting it up. were thinking cut all 4, sleeve, and weld it up. jig it up to keep it flat and square. I'm guessing the bottom should be fairly flat..... here is a couple pics.
Thoughts?

rooman:
Looking at the shots from low down I would think that if you straighten that lower rail you will raise the motor quite a bit. Project a line forward from the rear part of the frame and it looks as if it will land well below where the front end is now. Add to that the fact that it is generally a good idea to build a little arch into the frame so that it is straight when under load and you could be opening a whole can of worms. If the car worked OK as it is I would be more inclined to leave it that way.  As the straight edge indicates that the top rail is bowed as well It would pay to add a diagonal in the first open bay to stop that from getting worse.  Or better still, try taking the motor load off the frame (jack or crane) and see if the frame un-bows at all. If it does, add the diagonal to keep it that way. Alternatively, leave the motor in the car, tie/weight the front end down and jack the frame up at the upright where the  frame bows and see if that straightens the top rail and then add the diagonal.
  OR, as you are going to re-mount the rear and and move the motor back to the original location as per the earlier discussion you could modify the frame as you originally suggested and then mount the motor at the correct angle (provided that it will fit with the rails higher in that area).

Roo

dreracecar:
If you are going to do all that work to repair a saggy front end on the chassis table, do it right and front half the chassis, its about the same amount time, and you will have fresh continuas tubing without splices and interuptions. The back half is where all the work and labor is anyway

probird:
Thanks for the tips. It was suggested to hilti  the front and back to the floor and Jack the center up and see if it comes back. I'll add the diagonal. If it doesn't ,  I'll redo where the crappy welds are in the middle. The pictures are with the driveline out.

hemidakota:
This may be wrong but is it the placement of the jack stands where there is no upright causing tube to bow?

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