Need to buy a new Powerglide what options do I want for a FED

[FEDNV]

Finally cracked my stock case Powerglide at the CHRR so I am going to upgrade to an aftermarket case and whatever other goodies.
So what options should I go for?  What gear ration?  Roller tailshaft?
I run NE1 and have a 4:10 gear.

thanks
Scott

[dreracecar]

roller tail shaft is a gimmick for a solid drive shaft dragster.   Turbo spline input, 9310 planetarys, high tuff output shaft , aluminum drum with as many clutchs one can fit

[wideopen231]

overkill on the input shaft.For the few bucks differance in them why not go with strongest you can get.Now if going to ringless you have to match it to stator tube.I have aluminum carrier in mine but its because i fell into deal,plus its coan maximum duty planetary setup.I went with roller bearings all around to reduce friction.its not a big gain but it helps.High/low valvebody would be nice if can afford the little extra.Yu don't have to use the high gear leave but its always a option. Dbl ring servo is a given.

On aluminum drum.i have not run one and still possablity but have gotten mixed views on them,like most things.If buying new drum i agree as many clutches as you can.

You building or buying finished piece?

[bikeguy307]

For your Application I would go with a After market case, 300M input shaft, sonnax high drum kit, carbon band, Dual ring servo, (I prefer the TSI style with the lip seal on the apply side), !.80 planetary. A roller bearing extension housing is not a necessity, but I run them on both my cars. The aluminum drum is a big expense and has a short life span, if your really wanting to lose the 4ish lbs of weight, the Coan hybrid drum is the best to use as it is almost as light as an aluminum drum, but with it's steel band area it's durable.

Dan 

[dusterdave173]

I would stay away from the JW case--go Reid, Dedenbear, TSI etc   JW has had plenty of issues --maybe resolved but ...

[FEDNV]

Thanks for all the input guys, always learning on this site.
Scott

[George]

One of our racers has had issues with JW case. TSI fixed the problems. I run a Reid case .

[Banjo40]

Is there an advantage in running a shorty glide with a longer drive shaft over a long tail house glide with a shorter drive shaft on an FED with the engine set far out?

[bikeguy307]

I have both a TSI and a Reid one piece case in our cars. I am not a fan of bolting the bell housing on with the pump bolts. With that said I have several customers with JW stuff and have no problems.

 As far as the length question , I would think the shorter your driveshaft the better, however there could be some effects on the chassis that could come into play. This question may be better answered in Roo Man's fourm.

[ricci32]

I have talked to a few guys with the short glide and driveshaft Parks uses that setup because it is lighter.
 

[dreracecar]

I prefer the long glide because I am cheap and dont have to buy extra couplers and shafts and build a long driveshaft covering, a simple cover on the rear end and a male coupler on the trans and I am done. But this only works for engines out 39" to 42".
Running a shorty and a drive shaft will allow more mis-alignmed between the rear and the trans (if the case)because of the slop in all the componants. And because of all that, the slop has to be taken up at the hit before the car moves.
Someone needs to make the drive shaft dia match the shaft dia that comes out the glide. there is no need for the shafts to be any larger than that on the dragsters we run. 20 years of running a long glide (as mention above) and never broke a shaft