Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters

Changing over to alcohol.

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novacain:
Changing my FED over to alcohol and could use some tuning tips with regard to timing and carb set up. Car weighs 1655 w/ driver, 13 x 31's , 4:30 gear, 350th trans. Small Chevy 383, 11:1 , ported 461's ( 2.02/ 1.60) solid roller .257/.264 dur/ .585/ .600 lift. HEI w/MSD module. Holley 750HP alcohol carb ( 80535-3)
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advanced.

GlennLever:
You might consider moving this to Spud's Cave?

dusterdave173:
ALKY 101
Buy your alky from known trusted source hopefully in a sealed container or if in bulk at least get it from a seller that does volume and keeps clean fuel--there is a lot of crap fuel available.
Alky soaks moisture out of the air and goes bad--Keep it closed tight/sealed up all the time--we even plug our tank vent --when car not running
Filters filters filters--Stainless Never paper elements--available everywhere but Speedway Motors has good selection reasonable $
Never use paint filter or any kind of paper filter
BIG ONE--when buying new plastic fuel jugs remember they are FULL of plastic dust and shavings from being made--they MUST be washed with soap/water and rinsed perfectly before use
We drain EVERYTHING after race--blow through all lines with WD40--pull plugs, shoot down intake , inside tank etc then Blow it all out--You get a routine so it is not too bad --and...it will keep you from having issues that are hard to fix--do it.
There is always debate about top lube--many good opinions here is mine
It puts a film of lube on everything--it keeps corrosion at bay--that is the reason to use it--all that talk about lubing upper cylinder etc is bull in my opinion for the way we run--hey..I am eating dirt , rocks , bugs, etc down my injection--rocks off the slicks is a worry--lubing a cylinder in a non water block is last thing I am concerned about--those rings just have to tough it out to freshen up time :)
Timing is about the same in my experience--we run 38 total in a SBC with 13.8 to one
Lots to learn about getting engine warmed up right--ask fellow racers
I love alky--it makes Power!!

dreracecar:
If you run weekly then WD40 is OK, if its longer then Marvel Mystery. 
WD40 drys out the O-rings if it sets too long and will start leaking at the fuel shutoff and barrel valve.
Now that is for injection, and since yours is carbed I would just get a jug of the cheapest racegas or premium (no alc blend) and run that thru the entire system as the car is idling that way the gas is pickleing everthing. It will be a little rich thru the idle circut---So What!

Frontenginedragsters:
 Novicain:
  Alcohol is a much better way to race in my opinion. Some things to keep in mind:
Fuel volume is the key to keeping the float bowl full. Consider looking into a vacuum reference fuel pressure regulator.
Its a regulator that will lower the PSI at idle with a vacuum signal and increase PSI when vacuum drops at WOT.
We have dynoed plenty of alcohol engines and see between 25-30 HP increase by switching from gas to alcohol with an engine like yours.
One thing that comes into play right away is engine temperature. Yes the engine runs cooler but that is not my point.
Gas engines will dyno pretty close numbers between a warmed up engine and a hot engine.
When we dyno alcohol fueled engines a temperature swing of 30* make a large change in HP.
That means for bracket racing consistent engine temp is needed for consistent time slips.

Matt

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