Social > Your Builds / Photo Gallery

145" Slingshot build in the UK

<< < (9/13) > >>

GlennLever:
Paint is very particular about temperature and humility.

It is also very particular about re-coat times and thickness of coats (Enamel generally wants two thin (dust coats) followed by a median wet coat allowing ten minutes between coats and all re-coat within an hour).

I have been able to get very good results when following the directions on the cans. Humility can cause really poor and disappointing results.

I do not know if you used enamel paint but enamel paint takes for ever to cure, in optimum conditions 7 DAYS to harden.  Enamel tends to have the surface harden while under the surface the paint stays soft.

Below is a steering gear box I painted up to look like cast steel with the cover plate in aluminum. A coat of clear was added over the top of the three coats of paint. I left it hanging above a dehumidifier for a week. The paint is rock hard.

You might want to get a scrap piece of metal and give paint a second try? Paint will never be as hard as chrome, and will scratch, but should not mare with handling.

(This steering gear box is for my CJ-7 Jeep)

Ponti:
Hi Glenn,

  Might give it another go then. Yeah I gave them a couple of flash coats, and got a great coverage, then I'd left them for near as dammit 2 weeks to gas off, as weather went a bit screwy so might have got under the paint.

 Or just find someone with a spray booth.

dreracecar:
You did nothing wrong,
 The base material for chrome paint does not like to be touched or handled and if you try shooting clear over it , it will no longer look chrome.
The chrome paint base is more suited for having a CANDY paint shot over it

PSweeney:
Chrome powder coat is getting there and has the look of highly polished aluminium but still not close to the reflective qualities of stainless or chrome

There are specialised paints out there which are getting close.  Essentially you lay a gloss black base and put a lightly tinted binder over it with a very fine silver pigment which gives a translucent effect much like nickel plating.

Personally if I were you I'd stump up and get it chromed now.  Chrome plating is getting more expensive due to environmental controls and according to a guy I used the EU was looking to ban all proper chroming by next year.  Might be hearsay but the compliant methods are no where near as reflective or durable

Ponti:
Well, I enjoyed the sun, and so did the car..... First time since getting her up here she's got back outside, well partly.

  Bolted a few more bits back on to test placements etc.
 Also started at looking at a path to route the chute release cable and placement of the handle. Have thought of placing the handle down just in front of the brake lever, with the cable routing forward and round to keep a gentle curve, then run it back along the top tube / shoulder rail and having it come from under the pack ( not worked that bit yet )  What do folks think?

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page