After talking to slick manufactures and some racers that pointed out all the 10.5 tires are designed for the 10.5 door car classes. So I think the biggest difference in those tires is a lot stiffer sidewalls to handle 3000+ lb door cars and softer compound to work with "dead-hook, shift, dead-hook, shift," etc.
I've never seen a 10.5 outlaw door car "dead hook" From my observation it's a controlled spin for the duration of the run.
Do you care to expand on this?
I have a couple of questions, and I don't want to hi-jack the post, but here goes.
Disclaimer, I am known as an over thinker, and I don't want to be a smarty pants, but I am always curious.
There are a couple of JR. Fuel, Heritage, 4.99 minimum dial in racers on here, and there are also some bracket racers/nostalgia index racers that aren't concerned about the fastest ET, but more consistency and running the dial.
So here goes. First, I see some opinions about "tire growth" but why do you really want a tire to grow? they way I see it, the more it grows, the less chance you have of having a flat contact patch? Wouldn't centrifugal force push the center out? Yes, I know NHRA top fuelers do this, but, they also have a huge wing.
Second, I don't exactly understand the big deal about tire weight? I seen on Jegs the 10.5 mickeys were 33 lbs and the 32 12 hoosier's (D05) are 28lbs. Yes, I know 5 pounds a tire is big when ET is in line, but if running an index or bracket, what does 5 pounds really matter?
Third, it seems that everyone wants their FED/Altered to "get up on the tire quick" and "wheel speed is king" Why wouldn't a stiff sidewall work here?
Just curious, not to be smart, all opinions welcome
Fire Away!