PG Converter

[gasserx]

If you pulled the input shaft out of the housing, what happened is that there are 2 steel sealing rings on the shaft, pull the shaft completely out and check the rings, they each should interlock with themselves, if not and the locking tab is broken then they have expanded to a point where they will not colaspe enough to go into where they should be

The two steel sealings look good, cant say there should be any problem with them at all.
Still havent been able to push it all the way inn.... it feels like its hitting something.

[George]

Horse power is not the only factor when choosing an input shaft. Some things to consider are type of launch, foot brake or trans-brake, how hard your converter hits, and is your car suspended or solid. Solid cars tend to suffer from tire shake and this can be hard on everything including the input shaft. Another thing is does your car dead hook or spin. When all things are factored in it is always better to err on the over kill side, the last thing you need is an input shaft failure in the final.

Hope this helps, Dan

We use a trans brake and don't dead hook. We run a 12" Hoosier so there is usually some spin. Our local  track is well prepared and we can run 60' in less than 1 sec. Tire shake has happened in the past but for 2015 we replaced the 1.80 with a 1.69 and out went the Mopar 742 and in went the Ford 9" .(4.30) Rigid FED.

[bikeguy307]

Sometimes the input shaft can be a pain to slide back in. Try putting a yoke in the trans to line up the planetary. Without a yoke the output shaft can "sag" causing just enough misalignment that the input shaft won't slide back in.

Dan

[gasserx]

I made it 
It was the brass part with a hole in it that needed to be aligned.
Took a long screwdriver and just moved it into position, and voila!

[gasserx]

Additional question popped up......   From the specs on the converter it seems i need a flexplate with the large bolt pattern? Can i run into problems wich a 168 tooth flexplate to match the TQ and engine/starter?
Im pretty sure my block is a 1980-1985 based on the casting number on it.

[dreracecar]

NO, the 168t is the common one, just make sure you purchase good ARP flexplate bolts for both converter and crank flange

[gasserx]

Thanks dre! I really appreciate your help! 

[wideopen231]

Going a little iover kill on input shaft myself.More expence but less than breaking shaft and messing up new converter I am odering. By the way FTI is having 10% off till 4-15-15. They also have a deal that for 200 bucks you can get life time warranty and you have 1 year from purchase date of conveter to start warranty. Just food for thought. freinds seem to think that selling me a warranty on conveter means they will be out of business soon,not sure why they think that.