Author Topic: taking out radiator - cooling options  (Read 24048 times)

Offline dusterdave173

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 638
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.38in 1/8th
  • Your Engine: 355 CI SBC
  • Your Track: Mooresville, NC
  • Your Vehicle: CenPen 200 inch FED
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #15 on: January 27, 2015, 10:21:17 AM »
BEAUTIFUL PAINT SCHEME!!
LOVE IT  Show more pix--
I have always had a fascination with fast cars at the expense of more normal character development

Offline jimc

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 42
  • Southern Slingshots Northern Race Coordinator
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 7.93
  • Your Engine: 383 Tom Martino
  • Your Track: Englishtown, Atco
  • Your Vehicle: '70 Ed Mabry 186"
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #16 on: January 27, 2015, 10:37:24 AM »
Currently I run water in the block. I read a post about the engine making more power wet as opposed to dry. In the past I have run my water pump and looped around and had a heater core just to cool it down between rounds, when I bracket raced an older car. My engine builder wants water in it as well.

Offline George

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 515
    • View Profile
  • Your Vehicle: 1964 Mercury Comet Super Stock/ M automatic
  • General Location: Midwest USA
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2015, 12:04:43 PM »
Currently I run water in the block. I read a post about the engine making more power wet as opposed to dry. In the past I have run my water pump and looped around and had a heater core just to cool it down between rounds, when I bracket raced an older car. My engine builder wants water in it as well.

I started a thread that eventually got into the subject. http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php?topic=312.msg1340#msg1340

As for me , I would never put a radiator in a alky burning FED. I run a Dart 230 iron head and a LIL M block fully filled with no water.
« Last Edit: January 27, 2015, 12:19:36 PM by George »

Offline masracingtd1167

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1110
  • bill masiello Shelton Ct.
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 7.40's at 181 on motor 6.94 at 192 nitrous
  • Your Engine: 394 chevy
  • Your Track: Lebanon Valley Dragway
  • Your Vehicle: 2003 Neil and Parks
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #18 on: January 27, 2015, 01:26:15 PM »
Dose that pump fit between the fuel pump and drive ?

Offline Paul New

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 743
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 6.47 @ 214 MPH SBC
  • Your Engine: 387" SBC
  • Your Track: Woodburn Dragstrip
  • Your Vehicle: 2005 FED
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #19 on: January 27, 2015, 01:46:22 PM »

http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1510.0;attach=4082

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[/quote]
Dose that pump fit between the fuel pump and drive ?

Look behind the fuel pump extension but yes it does

Offline wideopen231

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1911
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 1/8 3.70@ 198 1/4 5.78@245
  • Your Engine: Hemi 526 ci alcohol
  • Your Track: Piedmont
  • Your Vehicle: 225 CMC FED
  • General Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #20 on: January 27, 2015, 03:18:13 PM »
As  have said here and few other sites ,I have rub dry blocks with alky since 1986,not that I have raced non stop since then. I have run it as normal system and used some tuning tricks to cool motor on return road.Never had issue. Now running round robbin could be issue if not cooling engine by running touch rich at time. Yes you might have to change oi more often than some like but for me that not a big deal.

With my deal.Solid block and billet hads its not even a option so know few tuning tricks will be a must.
Relecting obama is like shooting right foot because it did not hurt enough when you shot left foot

dreracecar

  • Guest
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #21 on: January 27, 2015, 04:30:28 PM »
Its the side by side exhaust valves in a SBC that creates the problem that the cooling or temp stablazation is a benifit. Chrys with their top and bottom valve araingment in not affected  and can run as billet.

Offline ricardo1967

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 570
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: No full pass yet.
  • Your Engine: Alky SBC 400
  • Your Track: Brown County Dragway (Bean Blossom, IN)
  • Your Vehicle: 173" FED
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #22 on: January 27, 2015, 04:37:13 PM »
Its the side by side exhaust valves in a SBC that creates the problem that the cooling or temp stablazation is a benifit. Chrys with their top and bottom valve araingment in not affected  and can run as billet.

What the man said... compounded by the fact that the elephant is a lot more meatier than the mouse.

Offline Paul New

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 743
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 6.47 @ 214 MPH SBC
  • Your Engine: 387" SBC
  • Your Track: Woodburn Dragstrip
  • Your Vehicle: 2005 FED
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #23 on: January 27, 2015, 05:39:46 PM »
Its the side by side exhaust valves in a SBC that creates the problem that the cooling or temp stablazation is a benifit. Chrys with their top and bottom valve araingment in not affected  and can run as billet.

Exactly I never started having problems eating head gaskets until I started to lean on it, 7.20's head gaskets running dry would last me 3-4 events once I started running 7.0-7teens the gaskets would go away pretty quick. Now running water in the heads I can get away with 6.60's-6.70's for a season on the same gaskets which for me is 40 or so passes.

Offline wideopen231

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1911
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 1/8 3.70@ 198 1/4 5.78@245
  • Your Engine: Hemi 526 ci alcohol
  • Your Track: Piedmont
  • Your Vehicle: 225 CMC FED
  • General Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #24 on: January 29, 2015, 06:33:02 AM »
Good points on SBC exhaust setup.Never raced SBC well not  on track,have had some bada-- smallblock street motors. I have run bbc and hemi dry w/o issue.
Relecting obama is like shooting right foot because it did not hurt enough when you shot left foot

Offline JrFuel Hayden

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 600
    • View Profile
    • Hayden Enterprises Speciality Wheels
  • Your Best Time: 6.02, 236 mph, 1/4 in 1973 Div 3 TF Champ
  • Your Engine: SBC, Alky, 403 ci, Best 6.99 @ 190 & 409 Hemi
  • Your Track: Bakersfield
  • Your Vehicle: 225" FED NHRA Heritage Jr Fuel
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #25 on: February 01, 2015, 06:25:39 PM »
For you guys running a water pump on your alky burners, do you have to run a pump because of the blower or alum heads or both ?
I would think the alum heads cool better/ faster than iron. All the fast all iron JrFuel teams don't run pumps, and most run water in the block and heads. The guys that run dry is because they have cracks in the heads so they leak water. As I stated in that 2011 post, alky burners run better hot, like we run 180°-200+° when staging, keeping in mind the engine will cool down some when that cool alky hits the engine when you go leave the start line. I know a JrFuel racer in Texas that had to replace his alum heads with iron heads because of the rules for the association he was racing with. He was unhappy his car was going to be heavier, but he did dyno his new iron heads, and was shocked he gained 50 HP with iron heads. Heat is energy and of course that's what we are trying to make is more energy. The alum heads are very good at cooling.
So, unless you are tooling around the pits driving your alky burning race car, I don't think you want to cool it. I would think you would want to tow it back to the pits so you can "read" the plugs with-out a bunch of idle. we have the track staff give us a warning when they want us in the staging lanes, so we can warm-up our motors before pushing out. Again looking for 200° after the burn-out and staging. 160° if running dry.  When we are getting ready for the finals, sometimes they are rushing us, so we just warm them up for a shorter period of time. I shoot for 180°+ in the pits reading my infared temp gun on the heads, but away from the magneto.
Keep in mind that old theory 100 lbs is worth a tenth. So Pete Robinson always said anything that doesn't float away when you take it off the car only adds weight to your race car. So how much does that radiator and pump weigh ?

Have fun drilling every thing in sight !
Jon
Jon C. Hansen

Hayden Wheels

Offline GlennLever

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2010
    • View Profile
    • The Lever Family Site
  • Your Best Time: 1/4 mile 7.950 at 165 MPH
  • Your Engine: Pontiac 461 Alky Blown
  • Your Track: Empire Dragway, NY
  • Your Vehicle: Front Engine Dragster
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #26 on: February 01, 2015, 09:10:10 PM »
I run an index so the ability to run the number is important.

I know that if I come to the line at 165 degrees and I have the right tune up for the air it will run 8.020 at 165 MPH

The water pump and radiator mean I can turn the vehicle around in about 10 minutes in the pitts (cool it down).

The pump radiator and water is a hold over from when I ran gas and drove back to the pitts.

I don't do that any more.

I could remove all that stuff but than I would have to relearn my tune up.

With me it is just a mater of choice.
Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars https://www.lever-family-racing.com/

Offline JrFuel Hayden

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 600
    • View Profile
    • Hayden Enterprises Speciality Wheels
  • Your Best Time: 6.02, 236 mph, 1/4 in 1973 Div 3 TF Champ
  • Your Engine: SBC, Alky, 403 ci, Best 6.99 @ 190 & 409 Hemi
  • Your Track: Bakersfield
  • Your Vehicle: 225" FED NHRA Heritage Jr Fuel
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #27 on: February 02, 2015, 12:16:54 AM »
Glenn, the track wants 8.00 bracket racers in a 10 minute turn-a-round, WOW they are tuff on racers and their crews.

Jon
Jon C. Hansen

Hayden Wheels

Offline GlennLever

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2010
    • View Profile
    • The Lever Family Site
  • Your Best Time: 1/4 mile 7.950 at 165 MPH
  • Your Engine: Pontiac 461 Alky Blown
  • Your Track: Empire Dragway, NY
  • Your Vehicle: Front Engine Dragster
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #28 on: February 02, 2015, 06:14:50 AM »
Glenn, the track wants 8.00 bracket racers in a 10 minute turn-a-round, WOW they are tuff on racers and their crews.

Jon
I sorry, not what I meant, I have the ability to turn it around in 10 minutes, not a requirement.

Before running 8.00 index I ran ET Bracket which could be called that quick, the 8.0 index is no where near that fast, although after going rounds and getting late I have experienced tracks wanting you up very quickly for finial rounds.

Last year Gateway Motorsports Park really pushed us as it was late and a storm was coming and I was really happy to be able to turn it around quickly.
Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars https://www.lever-family-racing.com/

Offline JrFuel Hayden

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 600
    • View Profile
    • Hayden Enterprises Speciality Wheels
  • Your Best Time: 6.02, 236 mph, 1/4 in 1973 Div 3 TF Champ
  • Your Engine: SBC, Alky, 403 ci, Best 6.99 @ 190 & 409 Hemi
  • Your Track: Bakersfield
  • Your Vehicle: 225" FED NHRA Heritage Jr Fuel
Re: taking out radiator - cooling options
« Reply #29 on: February 02, 2015, 09:18:04 AM »
Yes I know what you mean Glenn, when we have been in the finals, the track likes to run us before NTF, NFC so they are the last cars down the track. But we can handle a quick turn around with our crew, I down load RacePak, and look at it, and I look at the plugs, decide what tune-up changes, while Bud checks valves, makes jetting or timing changes, while our driver packs the chute, while other crew members drain puke tank, refuel, and put some air in the slicks, then because the motor is still warm we may just fire it up for a minute or two just to make it sounds right.

Sounds like FUN, right !
Jon
Jon C. Hansen

Hayden Wheels