OK--Let me get this straight--I did order the book from JW--have read it cover to cover twice now--they say use a "plate" on back of cases that had rear pump- can I forget that plate??-so IF I go with a regular forward pattern MANUAL --non trans brake valve body--I plug the 11 o clock hole--- and the hole beside the "horseshoe" with short set screw so it does NOT flow to rear but does flow down to valve body side and I am OK?
My pump has new stator support with a bushing for turbo shaft--so I can use it with PG shaft OR Turbo shaft---so what if I get a used turbo converter that DOES already have a support bushing in the converter? will it still work with my bushed stator support?
Who makes a kit so I can convert a stock valve body to full manual race valve body.
I did get the kit with thin alto reds and kolenes--so for a 600HP footbrake car do I need to cut the piston and pack that baby or can I just get --how many?? thins ??in the stock drum with stock piston? Should I buy a cut piston or is it easy enough to cut your on--I have a lathe
So then what about reverse? I am guessing stock number frictions will be OK as I am foot braking?
Is it worh cutting pump for a roller bearing or is stock bushing OK for my level
and one more--I have a nice new rebuilt pump with aftermarket stator tube and new gears --drilled everywhere--but it still has stock set up on priming valve with small roll pin--should I tap that to 1/4 pipe then..do I keep priming valve or flip it over toss the spring and do away with it like FTI says??
Dan if I was closer I would drop this thing off but....OK just one more--on the dual ring servo pistons they have with o rings or regular--which should i get and...on steel clutch hub --if I add more frictions but in a stock drum will a regular one do
?
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did hook your pal up with that brake and he is bringing it to you for fresh up--shipped yesterday so in a way I am sending you business