Just for fun little guy FED combos

[Pipe Dreams]

Pipe Dreams, how much did your performance improve when you went from 33x12 MH to 31x10.5 Hoosier ? And what width rims are you using ? And Oh Ya what tire pressure is working best for you ?

Jon

Picked up a consistent.03 to a best .05  in 60'.  The M&H tires are a really soft compound that was designed for N/TF and I had put them on the car right after I had finished building the car. Not knowing how much a fed likes wheel speed.
   The Rims are an old set of 15x10 ansens. Tire pressure 6.5 to 7 depending on the track. Hoping to gain a little more with the d2585's from you when they come in.
I' m on the list for 2 tires, right?

[H.G. Wells]

Before I got stupid and plugged a blown BBC in and then bent the chassis.
Fairly low buck build. Old chassis with a few updates, tired 383 from a street rod with a Hilborn from a roundy rounder, 10:1 flat tops and had a flat tappet cam ground with little to no overlap to make the motor think it had more compression. A little money in the trans and converter, some in the heads, and a little help from Frank and Scott Parks telling me what to fix.

Had more fun with this configuration running 5.50's with a best of 5.20 (light weight driver and below sea level air).
Car weighed 1425 with me. Kid driving in the pic was 60lbs lighter.

[Paul New]

We ran a 12-1 compression 355 factory steel crank and connecting rods, roller cam, set of Brodix Track 1's tunnel ram with 660 center squirters, old accel dual point, cheap carter fuel pump, factory six qt. oil pan. We ran a powerglide, 5500 stall convertor, 4.30 gears, and 31" X 10.5" tires can ran 8.60's easily

[JrFuel Hayden]

Yes Shawn, you are on the list for 2 D2585 GoodYear 31x12x15, I hope to submit the 150 tire order in the next 2 weeks.
You have a great looking car ! You might want to think about raising the upper tubes on your wheelie bar, up as far as you can, and delete the tubing between the upper and lower bars, it will work better.

Feel free to call me with any questions, 805-444-4489

Jon

[Mr Froggy]

As far as "Mopar Tax" I dissagree.  I realize that when it comes to SBC parts there are more choices, making the prices cheaper. But unless your building a full tilt racing engine, Mopars "especially Big Blocks" can be made to run very hard with factory parts.   

I have a 68 383 with a rerung shortblock, stock 346 heads with handlapped valves, 484 Hyd. cam, TM6 intake, 750 Holley DP and headers and it runs 12.50s in a 3500 lb Coronet.    I don't know what it would run in a 1500 lb rail but I'm sure it would dip into the 9s.   

Please understand.  I'm not trying to start a pi$$ing match as I Love and Appreciate ALL old Cars.   When it comes to basic Little Guy Hot Rodding  there are alot of choices.

By the way,  Great looking FEDs everyone!

[dusterdave173]

In stock form Mopars ruled the streets I agree I have been Mopar only racer for over 30 years then...I got a 355 SBC
Photo attached is of 440 I am finishing up this wk end --Harland Sharp is one of the only rocker kits that can stand roller spring pressure on a Mopar--my dealer costs over $700  Compare to Scorpion rockers made in USA that will handle up to 800 lb open SBC foe dealer cost of around $220
That is the thing I am talking about
Same with aluminum heads--This 440 will be a nice unit and run stinking fast but the price of every piece in it is near double triple compared to SBC--
I love anything that runs good --I build them all but if you want a real race Mopar then be prepared to pay the "Mopar Tax" 

[Mr Froggy]

I agree Dave.  Like I said, unless its a full tilt racing engine.    Mopars respond SOOO well to basic hot rod parts, as well or better than most.   As far as little guy combos with low buck power plants like alot of the posts have shown, I think a basic hot rodded Mopar would make a FED fly and not cost anymore.    Thats what I meant.

[dusterdave173]

I wish one would have fit in my chassis!!!! I am a Mopar man from start to finish but am loving these cheapo Chevy Small blocks!

[tony1966]

Mopar tax paid here too!  But at the performance level for a just 4 fun combo it shouldnt be much. Roller cam will drive the cost alot. If you stick with std intake ports itll help with $$ too.  Theres a point on the higher end though where everything is custom and it costs no matter the logo on the block. In any case its always nice to see something different at the track!  4 cyl renault anyone?  ;-)

Tony

[Mr Froggy]

I'll come outa the closet.  I have a couple 401 AMCs.   Rambler anyone!!!

[Van]

In stock form Mopars ruled the streets I agree I have been Mopar only racer for over 30 years then...I got a 355 SBC
Photo attached is of 440 I am finishing up this wk end --Harland Sharp is one of the only rocker kits that can stand roller spring pressure on a Mopar--my dealer costs over $700  Compare to Scorpion rockers made in USA that will handle up to 800 lb open SBC foe dealer cost of around $220
That is the thing I am talking about
Same with aluminum heads--This 440 will be a nice unit and run stinking fast but the price of every piece in it is near double triple compared to SBC--
I love anything that runs good --I build them all but if you want a real race Mopar then be prepared to pay the "Mopar Tax" 

 I could not disagree more. The TAX you paid is because of the parts you selected by choice. Any big block motor can easily best a SBC on cost when the power level is set at 600 or more HP. I also build motors for a living, I know very well the SBC at below 400 HP is no cheaper to build than say a SBF  I build both every day. Anyone building a big block for drag race only is wanting at least 600 HP. To build a SBC at 600 HP you had better find a load of used parts or you won't even be close in cost. The cheap SBC goes away fast when reality sets in.

[retroboy]

I don't care if it has a Helicopter engine but I started this thread so I want you all to calm down. Crikey. At the bottom dweller budget level the engine is just a lump of cast iron and doesn't know what it is. So Froggy, Tony '66 and Van how about some pics and details of your little guy set ups.
Cool yeah Groovy.
Cheers
Tony

[wideopen231]

Im in middle on the mopar thing. My combo is low buck because I have them laying around.High dollar because of what they are. TFX-92 Hemi's with BAE heads. My choice sell these at huge loss and buy chevy or make these work.Minor problems like keeping rocker adjusters alive in them with lack of pressure fed oil(thru pushrods),nothing made for these thats needed to run bracket race deal,not going to run water in solid block and billet heads.
 Up sides.A 1000 hp is pretty simple to build and when you consider these are real close to same as modern fuel engine its super low on abu8se scale. Plus nothing looks meaner than big fat hemi sitting in a FED except a blown fuel hemi sitting in a FED.

Its hard to say your running little guy combo when its all aluminum 526 hemi,buts its almost cost free.Heck with car ready for converter,driveshaft,gauges and wiring I am still below 6k in car and should be below 10 when its on track and painted with short and full body.

Still would love to have a stout running SBC combo for car.If starting from scratch I wouls have to say SBC would be way to go for cost and fun.

[retroboy]

Im in middle on the mopar thing. My combo is low buck because I have them laying around.High dollar because of what they are. TFX-92 Hemi's with BAE heads. My choice sell these at huge loss and buy chevy or make these work.Minor problems like keeping rocker adjusters alive in them with lack of pressure fed oil(thru pushrods),nothing made for these thats needed to run bracket race deal,not going to run water in solid block and billet heads.
 Up sides.A 1000 hp is pretty simple to build and when you consider these are real close to same as modern fuel engine its super low on abu8se scale. Plus nothing looks meaner than big fat hemi sitting in a FED except a blown fuel hemi sitting in a FED.

Its hard to say your running little guy combo when its all aluminum 526 hemi,buts its almost cost free.Heck with car ready for converter,driveshaft,gauges and wiring I am still below 6k in car and should be below 10 when its on track and painted with short and full body.

Still would love to have a stout running SBC combo for car.If starting from scratch I wouls have to say SBC would be way to go for cost and fun.

They a shaft rocker? Why can't you run an external line through the rocker covers into the end of the shafts and then where you need it?
And I agree I have a mate who lives in the US and I'd often thought I should get him to buy me some out dated KB or JPI or something and send it on down.
Cheers

[Nightmare AA/FA]

Check out the, "Advantages or a Chevy" page on this site.

http://www.highflowdynamics.com/

A stock iron BBF will make a ton of power.