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I'm posting for slofomoco on the forum / this is his build

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GlennLever:
Hi Glenn

Would you please post these pix for me? These were taken on 2 occasions.
Will you post # 20 to 50 first, we can hold the last 19 till after any discussion on the first batch. Thanx Glenn, I appreciate the help. The FED recerted to 7.50 last week.

Terry 

GlennLever:
Hi Glenn

Would you please post these pix for me? These were taken on 2 occasions.
Will you post # 20 to 50 first, we can hold the last 19 till after any discussion on the first batch. Thanx Glenn, I appreciate the help. The FED recerted to 7.50 last week.

Terry 

GlennLever:
Hi Glenn

Would you please post these pix for me? These were taken on 2 occasions.
Will you post # 20 to 50 first, we can hold the last 19 till after any discussion on the first batch. Thanx Glenn, I appreciate the help. The FED recerted to 7.50 last week.

Terry 

dreracecar:
Couple of things(well 3 to be exact)
1- Remove the push-bar mount off the spine bar uprite---could cause major injury if the car backs into the wall
2- Do not weld any steering componant that is already has chrome on it unless it had to be done in an emergencey to make the final round, If you have the time--do it right!
3- personal preference is to not have rod ends on the axle uprites and to use clevis's. Useing a clevis will direct the load down the center of the mount and will not allow the mount to twist whereas off to the side there is leverage and will twist the mount if it sees load.

Other than those items, have fun

rooman:
The steering box cross member is also a little marginal. I presume that the black painted portion was added to comply with the full cross member rule (rather than the original plated half tube mount). Also not sure why the steering bell crank has the adaptor plate bolted to it for the tie rods as it looks as if it had a dogbone end on that arm.

Roo

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