FED to Norway

[gasserx]

More progress today. Not finished yet, but getting there.

[dusterdave173]

Keep at just like the beaver--one bit at a time
You are doing great!
Let us know when you are ready to fire up--will give you some pointers that will help

[gasserx]

Keep at just like the beaver--one bit at a time
You are doing great!
Let us know when you are ready to fire up--will give you some pointers that will help

Thanks Dave!
Im still waiting for a few parts, but i just got informed that they will be here on saturday, so then im gonna lock myself into the garage and swallow the key 
Heads are torqued down. Just waiting for the pushrod retainers before i mount the rocker assembly. Also oilpan gaskets, flexplate, starter and exhaust flanges is in that box. Bolting up the intake and mount mag, fuelsystem etc, and few wires, then im close to starting it.

I might need help regarding wiring. What do i need for the mag? Its a coil of some sort in the car with an rev limiter (i`ll attach some pics later). And a few switches and wires/cables that im not sure whats for....
I dont need an tachometer i think, just setting the rev limiter to 6000 or 6500 for a start. How about other instruments? Oil temp/pressure? Oil lamp? Want to keep it at a basic minimum. Btw; im not going to test its limits at the first race.... just want to "feel" the car a little bit.

[dusterdave173]

 Over reving is not an issue--it is worse for an angine to be bouncing off a rev limiter than turn a little hard one time--forget that
Mag just needs a kill switch--which is just a ground on a toggle switch
Oil pressure on back of engine up high enough you can see from inside car--direct to engine no need for it in the cockpit
do not over tighten the intake--it will distort it and make trouble
my car has a mag kill, no tach, oil pressure on back of engine, a starter button wired to starter solonoid and cable from battery to starter--that is it-- Use a clamp on bicycle light $10--on back of car for tail light--battery powered just flip it on when needed at night
Fuel--make SURE you clean new made fuel lines out with pressure washer etc make SURE!!! they are clean inside!!
For fuel shut off cable you can snag a new cable from truck supply or from salvage yard out of a big truck--the replacment cables sold for rear diff two speeds are ideal and cheap
Make sure you use a large stainless element filter between tank and pump--never paper element!
email me dusterdave173@gmail.com and i will send photos of anything you need for ideas and help
put mag in with oil pump on engine and before you put pan on check to make sure you have end play in oil drive shaft between pump and mag---would not hurt to put grease on mag gear --drop mag in , turn several times and check gear mesh between cam gear and mag gear--sometimes mag may need shimming up --some have adjustable collars--important to at least check mesh pattern see if it is in middle range
After everything is in place and you think you are ready you must go over the injection and check blade opening--get return springs on in corrct places etc
Tune up should be right on, Jim is great tuner and I would bet it is dead on for a start up and start out deal
Don't CHANGE OR ADJUST anything without asking Jim first--if you do --you may be sorry--it could take great effort and time to get it back right--stack injections are easy AFTER you get them right but a real nightmare when they are off

[gasserx]

I have ran into a few problems over the weekend! Me and a friend worked with the valvetrain and got everything in place and adjusted, all good so far.

Then we where going to mount the intake, and noticed two of the bolt holes in the heads are totally stripped....  xxxx thing! I should have checked this before i mounted the heads, but i thought all was good. Maybe im good with helicoils, need to ask around if someone has some.

Another thing is that the new 168-tooth flexplate that i got is too big, and i cant get it through the motorplate. That leaves me with another problem, and thats my converter - wich have the large bolt pattern. If i swap to a 153-tooth flexplate there is no other option than converter with small bolt-patter? (as far as i can find out at least).

[Paul New]

The flexplate does not, need to fit through the hole in the motor plate bolt the plate on than bolt the flexplate to the crank and continue to run the one you have

[gasserx]

Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...

(i assume you forgot an "not" in there  )

[gasserx]

Over reving is not an issue--it is worse for an angine to be bouncing off a rev limiter than turn a little hard one time--forget that
Mag just needs a kill switch--which is just a ground on a toggle switch
Oil pressure on back of engine up high enough you can see from inside car--direct to engine no need for it in the cockpit
do not over tighten the intake--it will distort it and make trouble
my car has a mag kill, no tach, oil pressure on back of engine, a starter button wired to starter solonoid and cable from battery to starter--that is it-- Use a clamp on bicycle light $10--on back of car for tail light--battery powered just flip it on when needed at night
Fuel--make SURE you clean new made fuel lines out with pressure washer etc make SURE!!! they are clean inside!! Will do!
For fuel shut off cable you can snag a new cable from truck supply or from salvage yard out of a big truck--the replacment cables sold for rear diff two speeds are ideal and cheap
Make sure you use a large stainless element filter between tank and pump--never paper element! Bought one from Alkydiggers!
email me dusterdave173@gmail.com and i will send photos of anything you need for ideas and help
put mag in with oil pump on engine and before you put pan on check to make sure you have end play in oil drive shaft between pump and mag---would not hurt to put grease on mag gear --drop mag in , turn several times and check gear mesh between cam gear and mag gear--sometimes mag may need shimming up --some have adjustable collars--important to at least check mesh pattern see if it is in middle range - i will check this tonight, not really sure whats correct, but i`ll see if i can figure it out and maybe take a picture or two
After everything is in place and you think you are ready you must go over the injection and check blade opening--get return springs on in corrct places etc
Tune up should be right on, Jim is great tuner and I would bet it is dead on for a start up and start out deal
Don't CHANGE OR ADJUST anything without asking Jim first--if you do --you may be sorry--it could take great effort and time to get it back right--stack injections are easy AFTER you get them right but a real nightmare when they are off

[GlennLever]

Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...

(i assume you forgot an "not" in there  )

This is the way my rear engine plate is and it is a pain.

Every time you remove the engine you have to take the flex plate off.

[gasserx]

Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...

(i assume you forgot an "not" in there  )

This is the way my rear engine plate is and it is a pain.

Every time you remove the engine you have to take the flex plate off.

....but you still have it that way 
I understand its not optimal, thats why i asked. I will find another solution later, now i just want to get this thing running.

[Paul New]

Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...

(i assume you forgot an "not" in there  )

ha ha yes I will fix that

[Paul New]

Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...

(i assume you forgot an "not" in there  )

This is the way my rear engine plate is and it is a pain.

Every time you remove the engine you have to take the flex plate off.

your mid plate is also a firewall for most of us and it is a part of the chassis.

Glenn why do you have to take the flex plate off to remove the engine? Can you not pull the engine with the motorplate still attached? Not a big deal to leave it all connected in my opinion

[GlennLever]

Never thought of doing that way, I will look at it.

[George]

We install and remove the engine and transmission as one unit (with midplate). The blower and injector are removed and we pick it up with the lifting bar and a short nylon strap to each corner of the heads.

[gasserx]

Brodix valve covers doesnt look good, so i have made new breathers on the ribbed covers i got from Aussiespeed




They are sand-casted, so they need a whole lot of work to look shiny, but they look pretty much better than the Brodix in raw condition anyway.