Mr Fitz, I agree with Bruce, shoe polish on the wheelie bar wheel, and look at marks on the track after you take off. You can also use VHT wheelie bar spray, or I use kids side walk chauk. Also if you have a crew member video your runs have them shoot your wheelie bar tracks so you can watch.
I have run into a FED pulling to the right when I had one of my motors in a B/ND running in NHRA Comp, we fixed it for that event until we got the slick company to give us another pair, by running 1/2 pound more in the right slick.
Another good idea is to check rear end location by measuring wheel base on both sides, keeping in mind if your chassis has an offset front axle [ NHRA allows 2" offset]. I know a famous JrFuel driver that always commented on how much he had to "drive" the dragster that was built in the 80's, but when they had the car "front halfed " the chassis guy found the rear end was not square in the frame, so Don was very happy afterward that the car went straight. The very best thing to do if you think your race car is not plum is get it on a chassis jig.
The reason the wheelie bar height is important is if your bar is too high, and you have a tight converter, at launch you could be jerking you front end up hitting the wheelie bar hard thus unloading your slicks and maybe unloading your right slick more. Bruce is right about 2 1/2" height. It could also add to your problem if your wheelie bar is too stiff, thus adding to the unloading of your slicks. We use a 3 bar CM 5 feet long with no supports between the 3 tubes so it works like a spring and more gently pushes the front end down.
Another crazy thing that might be going on is since you are new to this FED deal is right after launch you may be looking for your shifter [ on the right ?] thus going to the right. After all you will go to where you are looking.
Have Fun with your new project !
Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels, and Hammer-Hansen-Hook JrFuel